Haute Horlogerie in a sapphire crystal case: Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon and DEFY Zero Gravity

Zenith cheap presents two special models in the DEFY collection, combining a unique mechanism with a sapphire crystal case. Zenith DEFY Zero-G has a mechanism that keeps the balance in a horizontal position at all times. This is to avoid the negative effects of gravity. The DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon has a tourbillon for the main time and a tourbillon for the high-frequency timekeeping. However, both models feature the recurring star pattern as the spatial theme, which is the hallmark of the watchmaker.

Zenith DEFY Zero Gravity Sapphire
The watch has a 46mm case made of sapphire crystal. This allows the mechanism to be viewed from all sides. Only the crown is not made of sapphire crystal. The off-centre dial is handcrafted from meteorite, aventurine and Grand Feu enamel and is based on a gold base. Meanwhile, the small seconds hand represents our neighboring Mars, partially covered by the main time. Last but not least, Zenith provides the watch with a power reserve indicator between two and three o’clock.

beyond gravity
The highlight of the cheap luxury watches is the “gravity control” mechanism of the El Primero 8812 S movement. The balance is suspended so that it is always in a horizontal position. This prevents the negative effects of gravity. For the first time, the Manufacture has embedded this technology in an open movement. In reference to the sky, the blue movement is decorated with white stars of varying sizes. The back of the adjustment mechanism is also reminiscent of the rough texture and craters of the moon.

Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
This watch features a 46mm case also made entirely of sapphire crystal. Beyond that, though, there are buttons on the side that control the high-frequency chronograph. Two star-shaped tourbillons dominate the front. In addition, there are many small stars on the skeleton dial. Here, however, the luminous hands also indicate the time. In addition, the periphery of the ring features faceted hour and minute indexes. The dial also has a scale to measure hundredths of a second.

Movement with two tourbillons
The Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire houses the El Primero 9020 movement, which offers two escapements with different frequencies. This allows the chronograph to measure hundredths of a second. Here, however, the two balance wheels are embedded in two tourbillons. The tourbillon, which regulates the main time, completes one revolution in 60 seconds. On the other hand, the tourbillon of the chronograph completes one revolution in 5 seconds. The central chronograph hand circles the dial in just one second to demonstrate the extremely high frequency of 50 Hz.

Last but not least, the DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire offers self-winding with a power autonomy of 50 hours. The manufacturer continues the space theme of the movement. Blue PVD ​​coated with engraved stars. The watch also comes with an Observatory certificate from COSC. This means that despite technical improvements, it achieves a maximum rate deviation of -4/+6 seconds per day.

The watch comes with a blue “Cordura effect” rubber strap and a titanium double folding clasp.

Brand Zenith
MODEL DEFY Zero Gravity Sapphire

DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire

Reference DEFY Zero Gravity Sapphire
04.9000.8812/00.R920
DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
04.9000.9020/00.R920
Case material Sapphire crystal
Size defies zero gravity sapphire
Diameter: 46mm
DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
Diameter: 46mm
Waterproof 3 bar (~30 m)
DIAL DEFY Zero Gravity Sapphire
Skeletons, Meteorites and Aventurine
DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
Skeletonization
Strap/Bracelet Blue ‘Cordura Effect’ rubber and grey stitching. Titanium Double Folding Clasp
Movement DEFY Zero Gravity Sapphire
El Primero 8812S
DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
El Primero 9020
Movement type DEFY Zero Gravity Sapphire
manual

DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
automatic
Power reserve 50 hours
FREQUENCY DEFY Zero Gravity Sapphire
36,000 cycles/hour (5 Hz)
DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
1x 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
1x 360,000 vph (50 Hz)
Features of Zero Gravity Sapphire
Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve display
DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
Hours, minutes, chronograph, chronograph power reserve indicator

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze 45mm

Bronze…not a typical watch material – especially a pilot’s watch. Bronze has been used many times in watchmaking, but it makes more sense in diving watches (even though, to be honest, bronze is still an odd choice for a timepiece. We’ll discuss why later in this article). When you think of bronze, you immediately think of Panerai, but other brands use it (eg IWC and Aquatimer). Now it’s Zenith’s turn to launch a watch in this green metal. It’s a pilot watch, it’s big, but it looks really cool. This is the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze 45mm.

The Zenith Pilot Type 20 became an iconic and easily recognizable timepiece among all pilot-oriented watches. Even though it has many classic aviator-style attributes, the Type 20 (not related to the Breguet Type XX, but rather to a specific serial number of a French navy-specific instrument) has its own design, its own style, its own feel and what makes it Something special. Of course, the collection consists of large to very large pieces. You might think of the already huge Montre D’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Pilot and its 48mm case. You might also think of the huge 60mm (yes, 6cm) Zenith Pilot Type 20 with its Grand Feu enamel dial. However, keep in mind that the collection also includes a small (compared to the rest) 40mm version, Made for women or men with discreet intentions, and a medium Extra-Special model measuring 45mm, now available in a bronze case. swiss cheap watches

45mm may sound huge, but remember that a significant part of the fun a pilot’s watch provides comes from its sheer size. In the golden age of aviator instruments, a design attribute now is the need for legibility. Major cases are both respect for historical works and respect for normalcy. As such, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special’s 45mm case has a standard feel – second only to the 46mm IWC Big Pilot or the 47mm Oris Big Crown ProPilot altimeter. The shape is the same as its larger sister, with these Specific lugs and strap accessories. Crowns are also typical of the range, with round and large onion shapes (this shape is a good point as the classic and sharp onion crowns tend to hurt). The main novelty: the material used for the case. The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze 45mm is made of… Bronze. What an odd choice for a pilot’s watch! Whatever the reason for this choice, the results are excellent. It’s warm, rough, and brings a suitably vintage vibe to an already retro-oriented watch. The case has a rough satin finish, again emphasizing the antique look.

Now you should be asking why we find bronze to be an odd choice for a watch – whatever it is, diver or not. In fact, bronze is unstable and ages quickly when exposed to water, acid, heat, or just sweating. This means that your beautiful gold Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special will see its case covered in green oxide after wearing it for weeks/months. Nothing bad as it will give it a special and unique sheen, but it’s something you have to pay attention to (you can easily clean it and remove this oxide). www.moonphase-watch.com

This bronze case complements the look of the dial and hands and is very successful. Everything in the Type 20 (regardless of version) is reminiscent of (very) early pilot watches – not the 1940s/1950s ones we usually see in retro reissues, but the 1910s/1920s Those of the era (such as this one created by Zenith for Louis Bleriot in the 1910s) are evident from the large Arabic numerals (here painted with luminous material) and the shape of the typical cathedral hands. Gold hands and slightly creamy numerals contrast on the matte black dial, which complements the bronze case. The overall result is very pleasing.

Inside the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze is the in-house movement Elite 679, a nice three-hand self-winding movement (no longer a Sellita movement. It’s a good sign that Zenith cheap has launched its own movement) Known for reliability, precision and aesthetics). The movement consists of 126 components and has a power reserve of at least 50 hours. Measuring just 3.85mm in height and 25.6mm in diameter, the movement promises to be hidden behind a sturdy caseback – it would be odd to see the movement through the sapphire caseback in the 45mm case. The same applies to dates, but fortunately, that complication is not present here. Case back made of titanium (bronze can cause irritation if in direct contact with the skin),

Introducing a bold Zenith HF chronograph

A Defy that will blow your mind.

Are you ready for the extreme limit table?

It’s always been there, lurking in the hidden valleys of Switzerland. But Zenith has gone ahead and revealed it in the latest intro to the Defy series. There’s a lot to absorb here. Clearly. Zenith seems to have moved from the hot Chronomaster Sport and retro-inspired Chronomaster Revival models we saw at LVMH Watch Week in January to—well—more extreme territory. So what exactly are we looking at the new Defy Extreme?

Well, it’s huge. It’s bold. And, it’s worth noting that it’s not a limited production release. The new Defy Extreme is a sub-series production of the 45mm chronograph series powered by the high-frequency El Primero 9004 movement. While movements and exposed dials aren’t new features in the Defy collection, we’ve seen the introduction of specific case profiles that, honestly, are somewhat similar to the minimalist, unforgettable Defy watches created and released under the former CEO of Officer Thierry Nataf was head of Zenith in the late 2000s.

The Defy Extreme collection is available in three different styles at launch, including a microblasted titanium case with black dial trim; a brushed, polished and microblasted titanium case with blue dial trim; a microblasted titanium case with a blue dial trim; Sandblasted titanium and polished rose gold case with gold-plated accents. Zenith also uses the Defy Extreme to launch its new quick-change strap system. As such, every Defy Extreme comes with a matching titanium large link bracelet, with an additional rubber and Velcro strap.

While completely unexpected (at least to me), the iteration of Zenith’s Defy platform starts to make more sense when you think about it. Most people today don’t realize that Defy isn’t actually a modern invention of Zenith, even though it appears to be. The real history of the name Defy can be traced back to the pocket watches produced by Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot in the late 1800s. Engraved on the dials of those pocket watches? Défi or “challenge” in English.

Decades later, around the same time Zenith first brought its historic automatic chronograph movement, the El Primero, to the market, the Defy name reappeared as a line of bold sports watches. They feature sharp, angular case designs—check out this 1970s example—and other technical improvements, including enhanced resistance to physical shock and improved anti-magnetic effects on everyday timekeeping. They are rugged steel watches for everyday wear, and their unique designs predate the mass development of the luxury sports watch genre by a few years.

Fast forward to 2017 (skipping Defy’s brief revival in the Nataf era), and Defy was born again, this time home to Zenith’s ongoing experiments in high-frequency watchmaking. We have the Defy Inventor, the Defy Fusée Tourbillon, the Defy Double Tourbillon, the Defy Zero G, and of course the Defy 21 collection as the new flagship. So how does the latest version of the Defy 21 build on a design that most watch collectors might consider already “extreme”?

First of all, we once again have Zenith’s exciting El Primero 9004 chronograph movement, equipped with a double escapement for timekeeping accuracy of up to a hundredth of a second. This means that the central chronograph seconds hand is able to make a lightning-quick revolution around the dial every second. (Seriously – if you have the time to spend some time looking at examples of the Defy 21, you won’t regret it. Interacting with these watches is a mind-numbingly fun experience.) Aesthetically, the lack of a traditional dial is a Not just expected for the Defy 21 model, but expected too – you want to see the secondary escapement zoomed out.

I don’t think Zenith gets enough credit for continuing to develop its iconic El Primero movement. That’s what El Primero 9004 is all about – evolution. It features a fully integrated architecture based on the original El Primero design (great for a 1969 creation, right?), but also incorporates a secondary gear train with a high-frequency escapement that runs at 360,000 vph or 50 Hz, and as a second mainspring barrel. To recap – the normal timekeeping part of the watch is almost the same as the standard El Primero, at 5 Hz, and then the 9004’s second stopwatch-specific part, which is isolated so it doesn’t draw energy from the traditional timekeeping mechanism.

The same goes for all previous entries in line 21 of Defy. But what’s new here is the larger case profile, which transitions from the tonneau shape found on previous Defy 21 watches to a more sculpted, angular form factor with 12 facets. This look complements the original Defy models of the 1960s and 70s, which were released before or alongside other popular multi-faceted sports watches of the time.

The bracelet also seems to be a new product and its lines and overall look immediately caught my eye. Unlike most other integrated bracelets, the Defy Extreme allows you to easily switch between it, the included textured rubber strap, and an extra Velcro strap, thanks to its proprietary tool-free system.

Defy Extreme is basically unapologetic in every way. I think you’ll know at a glance if this watch is right for you. Those who fall in love with it will fall miserably. While it may not catch your eye at first, you should still respect what the Defy Extreme stands for at Zenith. That’s more than 50 years of high-frequency watchmaking, high-mechanical horological engineering and unrestrained – good, refined, extreme – design.

Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon Yoshida 87.9100.9020 /22.l200

The double tourbillon “YOSHIDA SPECIAL EDITION” is now available from Defy Extreme, a chronograph that can measure 1/100 of a second.

Movement
MOVEMENT El Primero
FREQUENCY 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
POWER RESERVE approx. 50 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Date, Chronograph, Column wheel, Tourbillon Escapement
Case
MATERIAL White Gold, Rose Gold
DIAMETER 45 mm
WATER RESISTANCE 3 ATM
DIAL Skeleton
Strap
STRAP Rubber
CLASP Titanium double folding clasp

Covers all angles: Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385 Revival El Primero

In the world of watches, we tend to focus on specific models that become iconic to a brand. However, sometimes we encounter a movement that has such an effect that it creates its own gravitational pull. There is no doubt that the Zenith El Primero movement is one such movement. For collectors interested in the history of chronographs, and movements that have changed the landscape of chronograph production in many ways, a perfect way to add a movement to their collection is to reissue the watch paired with that movement – ​​Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385.

history
1969 was the year that the Zenith El Primero movement debuted. At the time, it brought an astonishing number of innovations, bringing to the world an automatic 1/10-second chronograph that also had a calendar function. To showcase this new marvel, Zenith introduced three watches – the A386 (which looks like the classic round chronograph we’re more used to seeing today), then the A384 and A385 with angular tonneau cases . While these watches do have a clear and unmistakably retro aesthetic by today’s standards, they are forward-thinking to the brand, allowing Zenith to be ready for ’70s styling. They were ill-prepared for the Quartz Crisis that was about to engulf them, which caused the El Primero movement to all but be lost in the mid-70s, were it not for the efforts of Charles Vermot.

plan the details
While the original A385 and A385 predate me by a few years, the Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385 Revival El Primero look like faithful replicas of these original watches. The starting point is of course that iconic case, which seems to be closer to the Defy line than we expected. No, it doesn’t have an octagonal case, but it has straight edges on all its edges, that’s what I think. This lumpiness of the 37mm case also places it firmly in the early 70s, creating a unique look.

The triple register layout of the chronograph and running seconds hand is recognizable today. Set in the middle of these registers is something we don’t see very often these days – the date display at the 4:30 position (imagine where the hour hand points). Of course, this is an odd positioning. We’re used to it coming at 3, 6 or 4 o’clock. But 4:30? Why are you there? I say the simplest answer is the most reasonable – it puts the date window between the hour indices applied. This means that the date window does not remove – or otherwise shorten – the index, as we see with the date window at the 3 or 4 o’clock position.

The main design difference between the Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385 Revival El Primero models is the dial color. While the original A384 featured a conservative panda dial (black sub-dial on a white dial), the A385 was super 70s, and the brown smoky hue embraced earth tones in the years following the watch’s original launch. It is worth noting that the A384 is the rarer of the pair, a limited edition for the North American market. Aptly called the A384 Revival Liberty, only 150 of this blue dial variant with red and white chronograph seconds were produced.

The Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385 Revival El Primero not only draw inspiration from the original models, but are faithful reproductions. We’ve seen some other solid dial colors for the A384 (such as the blue reverse panda dial), but these watches are largely identical to their ancestors, save for the sapphire crystal and non-radioactive luminous paint on the front and back of the watch.

inner work
Both the Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385 Revival El Primero are powered by the El Primero 400 self-winding movement. Yes, it features newer technology than the original, but it traces very clearly back to the original El Primero 3019 PHC, all the way down to the 36,000 vph frequency at which the movement operates.

Through the sapphire crystal on the exhibition caseback, you can see the Cotes de Geneve motif applied to the movement and signature rotor, as well as several of the 31 jewels used in the movement. Given how similar the movement is to the original, it’s worth taking some time to study it and see how the pushers interact with the movement through the caseback to get a better understanding of it.

With the El Primero movement, the obvious suggestion for a replacement for these limited edition revival watches would be just about every other Zenith El Primero watch. If you like the idea of ​​watches from the past, but want yours to look more modern, Zenith has you covered. With this particular combination of needs, I would point you to the Zenith A386 Revival. Casual watch fans will recognize the three-color layout, and enthusiasts will understand what you’re wearing on your wrist.

On the other hand, maybe you’re looking for that high-paced El Primero kick, but want a slightly unexpected form? There are some options out there as well. Perhaps the most famous of these curiosities is the Rolex Daytona. We know it today because of its style and inner movement, but that’s not how it started. When the Daytona switched from a manual to an automatic movement, it came with a (massively) improved El Primero 400. To be fair, one of the things Rolex has done with the movement is to change its beat rate from 5Hz to 4Hz in hopes of extending the life of the movement. The “Zenith Daytona” reference was produced between 1988 and 2000.

character
Aside from actually finding the original reference in your uncle’s watch box, the Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385 Revival El Primero are the best way to get you back in the spirit of what Zenith produced in 1969. They flew high with their technical prowess and looked forward to what they could create in the 1970s. These reissues date back to that quiet period before Quartz stopped their imaginations and threatened the entire industry. The case silhouette firmly laid the foundations of these watches in that era, while details such as the chronograph seconds hand without the star weight and the date window in its unique position further emphasise that these watches point to a very special beginning.

We tend to go for vintage watches because they scratch the itch from our past. Maybe it’s the watch we’ve always wanted but could never afford, or the watch someone at home owned but somehow disappeared before it landed on our wrist. In other words, we are trying to recapture a piece of our history. Vintage is one way of doing it, although you’ll worry about maintaining a watch that’s over 50 years old. Truly faithful reissues like the Zenith Chronomaster A384 and A385 Revival El Primero give you the best of both worlds.

You can recapture that lost history while taking advantage of modern manufacturing (such as water resistance, etc.), materials (sapphire crystal), and the overall reliability that comes from a refined and updated movement. While the A384/A385 cases are undeniably polarizing for the modern collector, these Revival models perfectly encapsulate what Zenith was all about in 1969. swiss luxury watches

Experience firsthand the new Zenith CHRONOMASTER SPORT and 1/10th SECOND EL PRIMERO

Zenith returns to its Chronomaster Sport series, launching two new chronographs equipped with El Primero, setting a new tone for the brand. It’s been 5 years since we saw the new Chronomaster Sport, the new implementation uses a traditional conceptual approach, obviously aimed at some of the main products in the category. As Zenith El Primero, it has the benefits of a built-in strong tradition. It also has an easy-to-understand design language, and Zenith is doing well while bringing El Primero into new areas.

The Chronomaster Sport has always been one of El Primero‘s more advanced designs, able to quickly adapt to new trends (for better or worse) and to attract new customers who value the modernity of their timepieces. The product released in 2015 has a diameter of 45 mm and a thickness of 14 mm or more. It uses oversized hour markers and hands, and is equipped with crouched, slightly rough numbers in the sub-dial. The three-color color scheme was cancelled and replaced by a uniform appearance color that matched the dial. Although handsome in some respects, it fell into a disturbing situation in the context of the El Primero name.

The new Chronomaster Sport series is clear at a glance and more meaningful. The new watch is launched in 2 styles, which can be recognized at a glance as the Zenith El Primero chronograph, which is very similar to the current Rolex Daytona (Ref. 116500), thanks to the prominent black ceramic bezel with your choice A white or black dial. Of course, a version of the El Primero movement appeared in Daytona for 12 years (reference number 16520), so you can say that this is an appropriate similarity. Fortunately, Daytona is a very beautiful watch.

As Zenith, this is not exactly your standard chronograph, it differs from watches such as Daytona in some important ways. The most striking thing is the chronograph itself. In the Chronomaster Sport, it can walk around the dial in just 10 seconds, tracking every tenth of a second along the way. You will notice the unusual layout of the bezel to allow this measurement, and it replaces the more traditional speedometers that you would normally find occupying this area. It is not as strong as the Land Rover 21 we are showing you here, but it can be said that it is more useful in measuring the types of things that normal humans need to measure.

The dial itself is dominated by three super-large ranges, which have received the three-tone processing of Zenith that we know and love. Here, they appear as blue, anthracite, and light gray. The rest of the dial is an exercise of restraint, with only a hash of minutes and seconds appearing between the applied hour batons, which themselves are beveled and polished. The date window appears at 4:30 and the color matches the dial. The simple dial with eye-catching, clear hands and hour markers reminds people of Deluca, which was rarely seen in the late 80s and early 90s, which is a very good thing. That watch is a story from another day, but it is refreshing to refer to these areas of its history to this effect when seeing luxury Zenith.

The steel case has a diameter of 41 mm. Thanks to the protruding bezel, every point on the wrist can be worn. The lugs have a radical but uniform curve towards the wrist, with sharp polished chamfers on the edges. From top to bottom, this greatly reduces the lugs and forms a watch around the wrist, effectively hiding the thickness of about 14 mm. Overall it wears well, if you think Daytona is too small, this should be your perfect choice. Plus, you might actually get one of them.

Inside the Chronomaster Sport, El Primero 3600 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz and provides a 60-hour reserve. This is the same as what we saw in the 2019 Chronomaster 2 limited edition release. This watch is very similar to what we saw here, but is more conceptual in execution. Chronomaster Sport is a regular production model, this is the first such appearance of the 3600. You can see the movement through the bottom cover of the exhibition. Although it is not beautiful, it is really interesting. As mentioned earlier, the chronograph is read every tenth of a second and is read through a pinion connected to the escapement itself (rather than borrowing from the gear train). There are 3,600 seconds in an hour, and this action jumps at 36,000 VpH, and it is easy to calculate from there.

The new Chronomaster Sport will be equipped with a steel Oyster bracelet with a polished center link. The edges of the brushed links have a polished bevel, which provides some visual depth to the entire bracelet. The fit and finish of the bracelet is not as perfect as you see on Daytona, but it can be used daily. Depending on the color of the dial, a blue or black fabric strap is also available, which looks more suitable for the overall beauty. Yes, it also looks great on a nylon strap. cheap replica watches

In-depth Zenith embraces the future with Defy Extreme

Double the gear train and double the fun.

I really like the stylish and thick sports watches that were born from the 1970s to the mid-1980s. I have asked Saori, Rich and Sean in our retro team to keep looking for the super mint Heuer Kentucky. Or Mark II Speedmaster. But what I really have been bothering them is the old Zenith Defy from the 1970s with a trapezoid bracelet.

I have tried them when they landed in the store before, and when I visited Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle recently, when I was in Geneva Auction Week in Switzerland, I was able to deal with almost the same example, Zenith Product Development Director and Heritage Director Romain Marietta .

Zenith Defy was born in 1969. It is a series of sturdy and durable watches with unique design, a few years before the development of luxury sports watch types. The octagonal tonneau-shaped case, the 14-sided bezel, the Gay Fréres trapezoid bracelet-enough to drive a person crazy. At Le Locle, the experience has been improved by comparing the latest high-tech Defy version with its older predecessor.

Zenith kindly lent me a sample of the new Defy Extreme for 2021, which is a bold extension of the company’s contemporary flagship product, Defy 21. When looking at Defy Extreme for the first time, it is easy to overlook this line as an ambitious attempt to capture advanced 21st century watch design in a bottle. Its frosted case is full of hard corners and corners, which is true; in addition, the case design is closely related to the Zenith Defy series in the early 1970s. The new Defy is not only Zenith’s response to the high-tech world of watchmaking in the 21st century, but also a way for the Swiss company to finally express a forgotten part of its history.

I chatted with Zenith CEO Julien Tornare when I was in Switzerland and asked him how Defy fits the brand’s goals today, especially since works like Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original have won all awards and headlines this year.

“Defy is about bringing our timekeeping expertise and our mastery of chronographs into the 21st century. Defy is about today and tomorrow. Chronomaster is about yesterday and today. For me, Defy is the locomotive that drives the brand forward.” luxury swiss watches

What makes it ticking
The special feature of Defy is intricately connected with the internal movement. The El Primero 9004 calibre is one of the few chronograph movements in the history of horology, which can record up to one hundredth of a second. Zenith managed to achieve this goal with the central chronograph second hand, which can make a lightning-fast rotation around the dial every second. In the past, some other watch brands have reached similar speeds, including TAG Heuer, FP Journe and Montblanc, but Zenith was one of the first companies to apply this technology to the production of watches.

The 9004 movement is based on the original El Primero architecture, but contains a secondary gear train and a high-frequency escapement running at 360,000 vph or 50 Hz, and a second main barrel. The normal timing part of the watch is similar to the traditional El Primero, with a frequency of 5 Hz, or 36,000 vph, and then a specific part of the movement’s auxiliary stopwatch, which is isolated, so it does not consume energy for the basic timing mechanism. There is no clutch to connect the two separate parts of the whole-although both are integrated on the same main board-so running the chronograph will cause the timing fluctuation or amplitude loss of the main time display to be zero.

The fact that each regulation system has an independent power reserve illustrates this most clearly. Traditional hours and minutes have the standard El Primero 50-hour power reserve, while the chronograph can only run in 50-minute increments. Have you noticed that the Defy Extreme has no sub-dial for elapsed hours? This is why.

Although the two main barrels are independent of each other, they are wound individually. Traditional chronographs are wound by a rotor or by turning the crown counterclockwise, while the chronograph can only be wound by manually turning the crown clockwise-it takes about 50 laps to provide enough power for the chronograph. In order to track the running time of the chronograph, the power reserve is located at 12 o’clock.

Due to the great emphasis on the internal movement of the Defy Extreme, fake Zenith uses a partially open dial with colored sapphire crystals. You can see the main chronograph balance wheel at 8 o’clock, and its main barrel is located at 12 o’clock; the independent chronograph balance wheel can be seen through the sapphire crystal glass back. When the chronograph started, it was running at an incredible 360,000 bph (50 Hz!), moving so fast, it was almost impossible to tell if it was moving. (One of my favorite details of hollow Zenith watches is the star-shaped silicon escape wheel.)

Since Defy Extreme can measure up to one hundredth of a second, Zenith ensures that it can be done clearly. There is a scale ring on the rehaut, measuring 1 to 100, and then three sub-dials-chronograph minutes at three o’clock, chronograph seconds at six o’clock, and running seconds at nine o’clock. Unlike the traditional El Primero 400 and El Primero 3600, the date window is placed on the bench.

I have always considered Zenith to be one of the most intellectually satisfactory watch companies in the past or present. My opinion is correct when wearing Defy Extreme, even if its naming convention sounds like it was born out of the syrupy haze of Mountain Dew’s marketing department.

Zenith is one of the few large watch companies that only uses its own mechanical movements. The company uses zero-source movements in any currently produced watches. This is a very rare thing. For luxury brands, Zenith’s operations also focus on accessibility. I mentioned that Zenith was one of the first watchmakers to put the ability to measure elapsed time to one hundredth of a second, and its price was less than $50,000. But I didn’t mention-dare I say-how extreme the difference is. If you appreciate the technical advantages inside, Defy Extreme offers an impressive value proposition.

Finally, Defy Extreme runs as a larger platform-45mm × 15.4mm-demonstrating Zenith’s overall technical capabilities. Similar to how we look at Lange and salivate for their high-tech achievements in Double and Triple Split, we should look at the high-tech achievements of Zenith’s El Primero 3600 and El Primero 21 in the same way.

Some of you may have read these dimensions and moaned. However, if you happen to find yourself in a room with Defy Extreme, please keep trying. You will realize that the combination of size and weight causes its wear to be different from anything else. The presence of the wrist is definitely there, but it will not make you feel frustrated or attract undue attention. I wore it and a suit jacket to participate in the GPHG, while running around in Geneva to participate in different auctions and wearing different formal shirts. I naturally forgot to wear it on my wrist many times.

I also showed it to the gathered collectors and pressed as much as possible. guess what? People think it’s cool-because it’s really cool. Among them was John Goldberger wearing a vintage Longines watch, who nodded to me in agreement.

I have a few people commented that Defy Extreme represents the trend of Zenith jumping on integrated bracelets. Or perhaps showing a certain degree of undue influence flowing from Hublot’s recklessness, Zenith is the young partner of LVMH’s watchmaking department-although more successful-stable. I don’t think so. I showed those people the old-fashioned Defy photos I showed you to prove my point.

Zenith was always there and did it.

Compared with the previous version of Defy 21, the biggest surprise for me with Defy Extreme is that I like it. Yes, it is bigger and has fewer colors (I think the Defy 21 model does a very good job-I love some UV light), but the micro-blasted titanium on my sample watch is very smooth and has an attractive matte finish Bronze beauty. Compared with the first time I saw news pictures, this watch reads much quieter in human eyes.

On the wrist, the appearance is very coherent, full of sharp corners, clean facets, and a sculptural form, which smiles knowingly under the slim architectural silhouette of Bulgari Octo Finissimo. The matching titanium three-chain bracelet is also a new existence. Its strong lines and one-piece appearance immediately caught my attention. Unlike most other integrated bracelets, Defy Extreme uses a proprietary tool-free system that allows you to easily switch between it, the provided textured rubber strap, and an additional Velcro strap. Although I recently stated that I don’t like rubber straps, I mainly wear fashion watches on rubber straps. Life is full of contradictions-oh well.

Defy Extreme is the rare watch I can imagine, which can attract retro minds as well as technical fanatics. It has the same appeal as a fully equipped G-Shock, I mean the absolute best way. (First remind my roommates, let them find the similarities first.) It is this kind of watch that makes you feel adventurous.

Defy Extreme is a large, eye-catching and powerful watch. Despite its large size, it is very convenient to wear. This is the kind of watch I can imagine that can be paired with a collection full of vintage watches-how cool it is to be invited just to watch the central pointer zoom around the dial once a second. Surprise, surprise, people like fast-moving things.

Zenith did not receive enough praise for continuing to develop its iconic El Primero movement. But I don’t even want to propose the traditional El Primero in the context of the Defy series. It seems that the ability of hundredths of a second will continue to be exclusive to the bigger and bolder Defy, and Chronomaster has received a new tenth of a second movement-El Primero 3600-as seen in the original Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster .

“Our world is timekeeping and precise,” Tonar said. “We must continue to break through the limitations in this area. This is not easy, because technically speaking, how far can you go? There are some limitations in physics that you cannot go beyond.”

The Defy series will not go anywhere. It was 50 years old two years ago, just like El Primero did, although not so much fanfare.

Although El Primero has brought Zenith copy for the past half a century, if we listen to Tornare’s vision, it is clear that watches like Def​​y Extreme will push the company to new heights and move forward.

Zenith launches limited edition Defy Zero G sapphire and Defy 21 double tourbillon sapphire watches

Although humans are accustomed to the continued existence of gravity, its influence is a major obstacle to the mechanical watchmaking industry. When the movement is at a rest position, the pulling force of gravity through the movement’s gear train will eventually cause slight errors. For centuries, watch brands have devised complex solutions to counteract the effects of gravity. Although wristwatches (as opposed to pocket watches or clocks) are more mobile and can alleviate most static gravity problems, the traditional remedy for mechanical movement is the tourbillon escapement. By rotating the escapement around its axis, the force of gravity is distributed more evenly throughout the movement, thereby achieving higher accuracy. For its latest high-end version, Zenith uses this tried-and-tested method of counteracting gravity and a more novel gyro stabilizer device. By embracing the present and future of gravity compensation, the limited edition Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire and Zenith Defy 21 Double-Tourbillon Sapphire make the brand’s watchmaking capabilities a compelling focus.

Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire and Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire are designed with a full sapphire case, 46 mm wide. The rest of the Defy 21 series adopts a sharp faceted flat form, but its sapphire material helps to emphasize the futuristic and sporty characteristics of the design in the image. Although many case designs will fall into chaos when presented in sapphire, in these iterations, the narrow bezel, tapered side chamfers and flat half-cap lugs remain clear. Although these clear cases can indeed uninterruptedly view the complex movements inside, they are indeed affected in terms of durability compared to their conventionally produced cousins. The Defy Zero G Sapphire and Defy 21 Double-Tourbillon Sapphire are only 30 meters water resistant, which is disappointing.

Although the dials of Zenith’s Defy Zero G Sapphire and Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire are gorgeous skeleton displays of the brand’s movement manufacturing capabilities, each model uses a completely different approach. Defy Zero G Sapphire is the more concise design in this pair of series. It adopts an open and airy layout and makes full use of the wide diameter of the case to create dramatic negative space. Although the layout may be simple compared to its counterparts, the execution is by no means so. Materials and finishes range from exposed meteorites to aventurine glass, miniature paintings, carved midnight blue PVD ​​and brushed stainless steel used for skeleton bridges. The chronograph function is located on the 12 o’clock subdial, which combines a dark blue aventurine central part inspired by space and a bright exposed meteorite outer ring. Chemin-de-fer minute tracking. The small seconds dial at 10 o’clock is divided into a meteorite ring and a mottled orange part, which is hand-finished by a professional miniature artist to evoke the appearance of Mars. Zenith’s engraved navy blue PVD continued the starry sky effect of most of the dial in the image, but stopped for a short stay to draw attention to the iconic element of Defy Zero G Sapphire-its gyroscope at 6 o’clock. Module. This unique design does not rotate the escapement along the axis like a tourbillon, but uses a micro gyroscope to keep the escapement components level, regardless of the position of the watch. This is likely to produce an eye-catching spectacle on the wrist, even in the image, the complex frame around the balance wheel is visually impressive.

Zenith fans should be more familiar with the dial layout of the Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire because it follows the layout created by Zenith x Felipe Defy Double Tourbillon for Only Watch 2021. The complex skeleton design divides itself into three different visual levels, each of which is color-coded to make it easier to identify in the image. The top hollow bridge and the chronograph minute subdial at 3 o’clock are all engraved with blue PVD. The random star pattern highlights the zero-gravity inspiration of the design. For the lower bridge, the minute track, the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and the chronograph seconds at 6 o’clock, the brand chose a contrasting grainy silver tone, while the solid bridge forming the bottom layer is finished with pure midnight blue PVD, making them Fade into the background smoothly. The external decimal scale is a direct visual clue to the iconic feature of the Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire, which is a dazzling 1/100-second central chronograph hand that completes a dial cycle every second. When this unique chronograph element stops, a pair of skeletonized tourbillons at 8 o’clock and 10 o’clock will dominate. One of the tourbillons is used as the escapement of the basic movement, completing a complete rotation every 60 seconds at a beat rate of 36,000 bph, and is used as a running stopwatch. When the chronograph is activated, the second tourbillon is activated, vibrating at an extremely fast frequency of 360,000 bph, rotating once every five seconds. This sense of speed, coupled with the pure existence of a pair of tourbillons, wholesale watches replica

Zenith uses the self-produced El Primero 8812 S manual winding skeleton movement to power the Defy Zero G Sapphire. Viewed from the back side of the watch, the El Primero 8812 S contrasts the open simplicity of the dial side with the raised geometric mesh of engraved blue PVD ​​skeleton bridges and rhodium-plated gear train elements. However, like the dial side, the gyroscope module occupies the center of the image. For the back of this complex device, Zenith uses hand-carved platinum hemispherical weights, decorated with gorgeous craters, reminiscent of the surface of the moon, and decorated with the brand’s star logo on the top. In terms of performance, El Primero 8812 S provides a stable 50-hour power reserve with a steady beat rate of 36,000 bph. For the Defy 21 double tourbillon sapphire, the brand switched to its internal El Primero 9020 automatic tourbillon chronograph movement. Although the dial side uses a layered bridge structure and an eye-catching double tourbillon, the back cover side of the El Primero 9020 provides a relatively simple view. The wide engraved blue PVD bridge is cut away to show the elements of the gear train, but the matching oversized star rotor covers most of the visual space in the image. When the torque-requiring UHF chronograph and its accompanying tourbillon are not used, the El Primero 9020 can provide 50 hours of power reserve at El Primero’s iconic 36,000 bph beat rate, and COSC-certified chronometer-level accuracy . Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire and Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire are paired with navy blue Cordura-effect textured rubber straps, and black lining creates a sharp contrast. As an added bonus, buyers of both designs were invited to participate in the exclusive zero-gravity parabolic flight of Novespace, a subsidiary of the French National Space Center. The flight is currently scheduled to take place in Bordeaux, France in February 2022, but the brand does not mention travel accommodation.

The limited-edition Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire and Zenith Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire use two completely different but equally spectacular methods of counteracting gravity, both strikingly showcase the brand’s considerable expertise in fine watches. Defy Zero G Sapphire and Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire are each limited edition.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Launches “Poker Chips”

Reimagine the G383 in the disco era.

I am happy to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, which is a collaborative version inspired by the El Primero G383 in the disco era, but with a lot of redesigned luminous-the dial is disco-style at night and during the day.

Brief background
Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because of its historical significance for its chronographs and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the watches produced by the brand are both attractive and affordable. So working with Zenith is a breeze for me-because it means I can create my fantasy El Primero.

One of my favorite Zenith vintage watches is the G383. This is a truly stylish watch, and its design is undoubtedly the style of the late 1960s and 1970s-the dial is on the top, a real disco.

But one-on-one retro remakes have never interested me (and I don’t like the small lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s product development director, and we spent a few months together to perfect the concept and create the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”.

At the same time, poker chips will be easier to obtain than our past version. It is as affordable as the usual price of Zenith watches-in fact, its cost is only 10% higher than the Chronomaster Revival A386 steel watch-but it will also be more widely available.

Unlike our Habring 2 and Kudoke SJX versions which are only available on SJX watches and sold out almost immediately, poker chips are the result of a collaboration between us and Zenith. It is still a limited edition, but it will also be available in Zenith boutiques, after our initial exclusive sales period-click here to express interest.

“Poker Chips”
Like our past version, poker chips are considered easily recognizable as replica Zenith, but it is very different from the other designs of the brand—a great idea is extracted from history and reimagined for today.

Therefore, the classic 38mm El Primero case from 1969 is retained, but it uses micro-blasted titanium for the first time (other models with the same case are made of steel).

Similarly, the dial design can be traced back to the earliest stages of El Primero. G383 was launched in 1969 with a crazy fan-shaped layout in black, white and gold, reminiscent of poker chips.

The unique style among the vintage El Primero models is also very rare-only about 200 units have been produced-the G383 is relatively unknown today, perhaps because the luxurious appearance is not suitable for everyone, especially its unusual lugs.

Reinterpretation
Modern Poker Chip transforms the aesthetics of the original work into something eye-catching with a modern style, but once you recognize the historical inspiration, the taste of the disco era becomes obvious.

The dial is dark gray, divided into matte black parts, with a Super-Luminova luminous pattern on the top, which reproduces the layout of the retro original-but with luminous.

Thanks to the generous Super-Luminova luminous on the dial, the “Poker Chips” pattern is obvious both day and night-although I do think it is more noticeable in the dark.

In order to play the best effect at night, this watch is also equipped with an extra strap soaked with Super-Luminova luminous material to make the whole strap glow. Credit for the luminous strap goes to Romain and his team.

Because the dial is too cool, the case is limited, while retaining the retro classic style. Like the Chronomaster Revival model and the vintage El Primero A386, this case has a 38mm compact design, but minimalism.

It is a micro-sandblasted titanium metal that gives the case a fine dark gray finish, and then the coating enhances its wear resistance and helps prevent fingerprints from showing.

Inside the case is the El Primero 400, which is basically the same movement as the G383 and all other El Primero models from 1969.

Zenith had already launched a new version of the El Primero movement when it started this project last year, so you can choose the movement. We decided to use the original El Primero for two reasons.

The fact is that as the latest version of the movement becomes more popular throughout the Zenith series, I expect the original El Primero will gradually become less common. The second is to reimagine the aesthetics of vintage watches but retain the mild irony of the same movement.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”
Ref. 97.G383.400.38.C880

Diameter: 38 mm
Material: Titanium, micro-sandblasting
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 meters

Movement: El Primero 400
Functions: hour, minute, second, date and chronograph
Frequency: 36,000 times per hour (5 Hz)
Chain: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Black fabric pin buckle with luminous fabric strap

ZENITH CHRONOMASTER ORIGINAL Premium Edition

To celebrate the opening of its Manufacture boutique in Le Locle, Swiss luxury watch brand Zenith has launched its latest boutique exclusive special edition Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition. It is the only Zenith boutique in Switzerland.

This special edition combines the instant recognition of the earliest El Primero steel chronograph in 1969 and the acclaimed design specifications, as well as the latest iteration of the iconic automatic high-frequency chronograph movement. Measure and display the elapsed time within one second.

This boutique version has an eye-catching blue dial with a silver chronograph, creating a historically inspired but completely original look. fashion watches

The watch comes with a steel bracelet and retail price is 8,900 Swiss francs. The blue calfskin strap version is priced at 8,400 Swiss francs. Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition can be purchased in all Zenith boutiques and online stores worldwide.

technical details
Model: Zenith Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition
Reference: 03.3200.3600/51.M3200

Movement
El Primero 3600 Automatic
Automatic El Primero column wheel chronograph capable of measuring and displaying 1/10 second
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: about 60 hours
4:30 Date display
Stop-second mechanism

Function
central
Hour and minute hands Small seconds at nine o’clock
1/10 second chronograph: The central chronograph hand rotates once in 10 seconds, with a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock and a 60-second counter at 3 o’clock

Watch case
38 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 5 ATM
Bottom: Sapphire crystal

dial
Blue dial, silver chronograph
Time scale: rhodium-plated, faceted, Super-LumiNova® SLN C1 coating
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted, Super-LumiNova® SLN C1 coating

Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet and stainless steel double folding clasp.

Model: Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition
Reference: 03.3200.3600/51.C902

Movement
El Primero 3600 Automatic
Automatic El Primero column wheel chronograph capable of measuring and displaying 1/10 second
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: about 60 hours
4:30 Date display
Stop-second mechanism

Function
central
Hour and minute hands Small seconds at nine o’clock
1/10 second chronograph: The central chronograph hand rotates once in 10 seconds, with a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock and a 60-second counter at 3 o’clock

Watch case
38 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Bottom: Sapphire crystal

dial
Blue dial, silver counter
Water resistance: at 5 ATM
Marking: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova® SLN C1
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova® SLN C1

Bracelet
Blue calfskin strap with stainless steel tri-fold buckle

Zenith Chronomaster

Zenith Chronomaster movement is impressive, worth seeing TUDOR has produced a new version of its black bay chronosick in 2021, but this is the road that Zenith has worn well. The company is considered to be some of the world’s most innovative and breakthrough chronographs, so it will be surprised by super high-tech and complex functions in 2020 counting table sports release.

Zenith learned one or two things in the Time Code Table, and developed one of the first automatic winding Chrono movement in the late 1960s. After all, Zenith El Primero Moreve provides power to Rolex Daytona prior to the Lloyd itself. Chronomaster Sport is the first watch that uses Zenith’s new 3600 sports, this has been upgraded in the first 400 sports. It uses a stunt project that allows it to track the second incremental 1/10 and perform in a manner that does not seriously affect the accuracy or normal operation.

It is difficult to look at the regular exercise, not to think that it is similar to Role Shigona, but there is more situations in Zenith. Yes, it has a ceramic baffle, yes, it can use a white dial, but the overall feeling and contour of the watch are completely different from Dona. Regular exercise is clearer, more decorated, and add date complications, which make Zenith more useful before daily.

On paper, the sky is equally impressive. The detailed case can be up to 100 meters of water resistance, sports carry 60 hours of power reserves, again, the date window is useful for daily wear watches. The 41 mm housing refreshes the top and polishes it on each side, forms the shape of the captured light, and gives the true depth of observing it without physical thickness. Zenith fake watches

Double-stranded exercise can look great on a bracelet or strap. This is one of the watches, which can easily pull the leather strap as possible because it is a stainless steel bracelet. The central link of the bracelet is polished, gives it a high-end look, but the front movement can also put the rubber strap made from Zenith manufactured. Depending on the dial color, the belt can be blue or black, with any one of the three-color discs of the watch.

The formal athlete is a strong watchmaker’s strong watch and shows that new technologies are alive in the mechanical performance world. As a chronograph company, Zenith knows how to build a watch, this sport is a good example of the watch manufacturer’s unfinished innovation. cheap replica watches