HYT HASTROID GREEN NEBULA, a watch from space

Give a child a piece of paper and a pencil and have him draw a watch and he will draw a circular case with two thin lines for hands. Davide Cerrato is presumably the exception to the so-called confirmation rule, since with a HYT Hastroid in his hand, it’s hard to believe he drew round watches as a child. As an adult, he did, setting the first Tudors and Montblancs over the years, but when HYT gave him a blank sheet of paper and a pencil, this kid who grew up on bread, Star Wars and superheroes created something almost alien.

The HYT brand may not sound new to watch lovers, but the company and new management are taking a completely different route than in the past, and so are its products. The first model, due out in early 2022, is called the Hastroid Green Nebula, and it already hints that the inspiration isn’t entirely from our planet; a first glance only confirms that conjecture. The watch’s case shape is hard to pin down: the angular, layered and machined titanium and carbon look is reminiscent of a space shuttle, and it smoothly integrates a rubber or Alcantara strap, despite its 48mm diameter , which guarantees the unexpected new wear resistance of HYT cheap watches.

The Hastroid isn’t exactly slim, barely 18mm thick, but it’s certainly wearable, especially considering what it’s packed into. The mechanism itself consists of two modules: the first is a “classic” 4Hz mechanical module that guarantees a power reserve of 72 hours, and the second is a fluid module that represents the HYT brand and the true soul of this watch: impossible not to notice, at least On the Skull dial, so to speak, is a tiny tube filled with an alien green liquid. HYT’s patented way and “signature” to indicate the time. In fact, the watch has a central minute hand, more imposing and striking than in the past, flanked by a second hand and a power reserve indicator; the rest of the stage is at six o’clock. Occupied by two cylindrical “artifacts”, they are connected to microtubes that run around the entire circumference of the mechanism.

HYT HASTROD Green Nebula: A Masterpiece of Chemistry and Precision
This is not the place to discuss chemistry and fluid dynamics (the author doesn’t know about the subject either), but imagine two miniature tanks, one containing a very dense green liquid and the other a clear liquid. Connect them with a tube the thickness of a human hair, put the whole thing in a vacuum, and attach it to the mechanical module so that the split wheel precisely compresses the barrel containing the green liquid into the tube ( push transparent) to precisely indicate the passage of time. complete? Well, now all you have to do is set up a return system that allows – at the 6 o’clock stroke – the two barrels to reverse the flow so that the green liquid returns to its original position, resetting the hour. Ah, this time it must have happened suddenly, not gradually like before.

Completed? Almost, because one of the biggest enemies of fluids – hence our superhero watches – is temperature change: cold makes it cool down, heat makes it liquefy further. These can cause problems for a cheap watch with only a few drops of lube on the pinion and ruby, imagine what happens to the Hastroid, which is a tanker by comparison: HYT solves the problem, we can be concise Briefly referred to as a micro-condenser, it is placed inside a micro-tank and is able to expand or compress at the slightest temperature change, thus guaranteeing a constant pressure inside the micro-tube and the watch always working precisely. The easiest but also the most complicated part is that it can be adjusted simply by turning the crown at 2 o’clock.

Hands-on: Limited Edition Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire Watch

Haute Horlogerie is largely a visual spectacle. Much of the experience of a fake luxury watches is in its appearance – the quality of the finish, the shapes that make up the design, the use of colors. Aside from the tactile wearing experience (and the very occasional scented rubber strap), timepieces are generally not designed to stimulate our other senses, but the minute repeater is the dramatic musical exception to this rule. First released at Watches and Wonders 2022, the limited-edition Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire takes the classic minute repeater design in a spectacular new direction, offering a full sapphire watch that is as pleasing to the ears as it is to the eyes, and introduces a Series of new horological innovations.

Normally a sapphire case would be a clear (no pun intended) visual highlight of any watch, but it’s a testament to the finishing and movement work of the Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire, an exotic case that doesn’t overshadow the rest the design. The 42.5mm wide case design itself is clean and classic, with elongated tapered lugs, a narrow round bezel and a manageable 11.5mm thick profile. However, this is the pinnacle of the Chopard collection, which the brand aims to differentiate from its sapphire rivals through attention to detail. The most obvious example of this fine detail work on the case is undoubtedly the crown. Many sapphire case designs compromise on the cost or practicality of the crown, choosing to take this extremely complex and wear-resistant shape in metal rather than laboriously molding the grippable toothed edges into superhard sapphire crystal. Chopard not only created a full crystal crown for the LUC Full Strike Sapphire, but added an integrated minute repeater pusher, also made of sapphire, to this complication. It’s a subtle force move on top of the more public spectacle, but one that stands out given the difficulty of making small, complex sapphire parts.

However, the minute repeater case is more than just a standard case, and another Chopard achievement with the LUC Full Strike Sapphire is its quality as an instrument. Any minute repeater case can act as a resonator for the internal striking mechanism, and while watchmakers have centuries of experience in creating full, rich sounds with metal cases, sapphire cases are a relatively new phenomenon. At first glance, this may seem like a sound engineering question – how does Chopard create a pleasing tone from untested materials? In fact, sapphire crystal has excellent acoustic properties (recall any time someone draws attention to themselves at a crowded wedding by simply tapping a crystal barware). LUC Full Strike Sapphire provides a clear, even and exceptionally loud ringtone.replica Chopard L.U.C Watch

Although the layout is carried over from an earlier version of LUC Full Strike, the execution of the Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire dial is quite different. Although at first glance it appears to be a completely hollowed-out design, the use of a partial sapphire dial layer gives the overall look both a sense of visual depth and a clearer basis for legibility, without detracting from the drama of the hollowed-out movement below. Chopard has chosen the iconic rhodium-plated stepped dauphine mobile phone of the LUC series, combined with the railway outer minute track and the slender pointed applied hour markers, making the design a unique fusion of classic and futuristic charm. The seconds hand running at 6 o’clock is more or less standard fare, but the dual power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock makes it clear that something special is going on under the hood (if the skeletal layout and sapphire case haven’t already made the case). you know). The internal Poser reserve scale tracks the usual winding progress of the mainspring, while the external scale provides a way for the wearer to monitor the second concentric mainspring barrel of LUC’s Full Strike Sapphire, designed for the power-hungry three. Ask for complications and keep it.

The Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire‘s in-house LUC 08.01-L hand-wound minute repeater movement features sheer visual complexity and ornate decoration, making it a true horological spectacle without the need for a striking mechanism. From the dial side, an intricate web of skeleton bridges can be seen, finished with clean vertical brushing and polished corners above the warm pearl-finish nickel silver (sometimes called German silver) main plate. Of course, what really stands out is the pair of large axe-shaped minute repeater hammers from 9 to 11 o’clock. These, combined with Chopard’s patented sapphire crystal gongs, create a beautiful bright, clear tone. From the rear of the car, LUC 08.01-L is simpler and more classic.high quality copy watches

However, the LUC 08.01-L movement is more than just a visual display. Chopard has introduced several unique innovations to this movement, mainly designed around the protection of the precise minute repeater mechanism. First, if the dedicated mainspring barrel for the minute repeater does not have enough energy to complete the striking sequence, the movement includes an automatic safety disconnect to prevent the pusher from engaging the striking and potentially damaging the assembly for part of the cycle. Related to this, once the complication is activated, the integrated crown minute repeater pusher is automatically disengaged by another proprietary safety system, preventing the pusher from accidentally stopping the striking cycle and damaging the components. Chopard’s patented variable inertia balance also helps the movement maintain a steady 60-hour power reserve at a beat rate of 28,800 bph. The dedicated mainspring barrel for the minute repeater also provides a considerable power reserve, enough to play the longest chiming sequence (12 hours 59 minutes) before it needs to be wound. Chopard has mounted the LUC Full Strike Sapphire on a high-impact grey alligator strap with dramatic highlights and lowlights to match the bright quality of the sapphire case and inner movement.

With an elegant, striking design, the limited edition Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire elevates the visual and aural aspects of the timepiece and is one of the most visually and technically impressive editions of 2022 to date.

Richard Mille – RM 38-02 Tourbillon Bubba Watson

Richard Mille and professional golfer Bubba Watson have been working together for over a decade on several timepieces, but the pink – sort of Bubba obsession – not yet in any watch.

Pink appears on his clubs, golf balls, signature drivers and clothing, so he has pushed the Swiss brand to create pink models since the collaboration began. They eventually came to an agreement, and the result was the new Richard Mille RM 38-02 Tourbillon Bubba Watson.

Inspired by the boldness of previous signature Bubba Watson and his favourite colour, the RM 38-02 is built around a carbon TPT baseplate consisting of multiple layers of parallel carbon filaments. This material, which is ubiquitous in RM 38-02, is very demanding in terms of processing, both because of its hardness and because it undergoes skeletonization.

As for the whole watch, we have carried out a number of extensive tests on the baseplate to ensure that its skeletonization does not affect its mechanical properties. To be sure, the Golf is a great testing ground for this high-performance sports watch. On the wrist of a great hitter like Bubba Watson, this watch has to withstand the stress of hard stops and hard acceleration.

Given the acceleration of today’s golf balls as high as 50,000 grams, it was critical to ensure that the RM 38-02 could withstand shocks of up to 10,000 grams.

The baseplate supports grade 5 titanium bridges that securely hold the involute gears and the 10.90mm tourbillon with variable inertia balance. The open bridge consists of two tubes that run through the movement from both sides. They are hand-painted in grade 5 titanium and pink, highlighting the unique construction of the RM38-02 movement.

The micro-perforated bridges on the back of the movement are also pink, echoing the driver’s head motif that Bubba uses in the race.

The case of the RM 38-02 with a fixed carbon fiber TPT base plate is made of the same material, here combined with pink quartz TPT fiber. Combining the different colours and materials so skillfully was no small technical challenge. The groove on the case visually extends the opening on the bezel.

The asymmetrical shape of the 43.70 x 50.04 x 15.95 mm case ensures optimum comfort and prevents the dynamometer crown from rubbing against the wrist. Water resistance is guaranteed up to 5 bar (50 m/165 ft) thanks to two nitrile O-rings.

Vibrating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), the movement is equipped with a free sprung balance with variable inertia, a mechanism that ensures greater reliability in the event of shocks and during assembly or disassembly of the movement for better timing results. Thanks to 4 small adjustable screws located directly on the balance, the regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible.

The fast-spinning barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours for improved performance) guarantees a power reserve of approximately 70 hours (±10%). fashion cheap watches

The same Franck Muller Vanguard chronograph as the Master Square

Looking at the new Franck Muller Chronograph, many people will mistake this product for the Franck Muller Master Square watch – because of its design.

Looking at the new Franck Muller chronograph, many people would mistake it for a Franck Muller Master Square watch – because the dial design is quite similar to its predecessor in contemporary art style.

The new chronograph from the Vanguard collection is said to bring out the magic of the popular children’s movie Charlie and the Chocolate Factory: golden tickets wrapped in chocolate candy. Then here, different from the traditional watch design, will be the most precise and accurate chronograph movement.

Because the design of this watch is too similar to the older model of the Franck Muller Master Square watch, many people are not very excited, because the numbers on the dial look rather ugly – according to contemporary art. Except for the familiar Franck Muller Geneve watch lettering under the number 12, it is easy to see. But this is a truly extraordinary watch.

The tonneau-shaped case is available in 3 versions: 18K rose gold, stainless steel or titanium, which many consider to be a product of the Franck Muller Master Square watch because of the variety of materials, both high-end and luxurious. But for watchmakers, materials aren’t much of an issue. They had to make 2 diving chronograph dials under the 2 main hour hands, parallel to the 2 numerals at 3 and 9 o’clock – which was difficult for them. Apparently, people say the numbers on the Moulin Master Square watch are hard to see, but the Vanguard Chronograph made it even more difficult by designing a watch with numbers and hands so close together. Still, customers say the model looks really good, and they can still easily read the numbers on the dial.

The Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph is powered by the Franck Muller 7000 self-winding movement, decorated with 27 jewels and jewels, with a power reserve of 49 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (equivalent to 4Hz). This authentic Swiss brand is also decorated in a Côtes de Genève style with round beads evenly distributed.

The watch is quite large, measuring 44mm wide, 53.7mm long and 15.8mm thick. Wear it and your wrist is sure to stand out. If the Franck Muller Master Square is known for its use of Arabic numerals, Vanguard uses traditional numerals. The watch is inherently large and “oversized” and the use of Arabic numerals makes it look “clunky”.

Along with the number 6, the hour indicator has been removed and replaced with a date box. A lot of people commented that they didn’t really like the change, but the alligator strap – attached to the ears, the rubber band on the back makes it easier to remove the strap, and the grey dial makes it easier to see the colored dial than the others. discount replica watches

Richard Mille: 2022 Le Mans Classic Limited Edition

As a sponsor of the Vintage Le Mans Classic, Richard Mille has once again designed a limited edition timepiece. The eye-catching design should mainly appeal to fans who like the look of special retro cars.

The new RM 029 Automatic Le Mans Classic is the eighth model created as part of the Richard Mille event sponsorship. This tradition started in 2002. “Enthusiasts immediately recognized the timeless color combination of green and white,” the company said in an Instagram post. (Also interesting: Italian coach inspired Richard Miller RM 11-04)

The RM 029 Automatic Le Mans Classic is designed to celebrate the world’s largest historic motoring event – not least because the race, which is usually held every two years, is now scheduled for 2022 and 2023 due to the corona pandemic. 2023 is also a special year in the history of the Le Mans Classic, as that year will mark the centenary of the 24 Hours.

Richard Mille: Details of a strictly limited timepiece
Particularly striking is the skeletonized dial, which offers a glimpse into the interior of the white and green quartz case. The RMAS7 titanium automatic movement works there. The typical racing double stripes at twelve and six o’clock on the bezel are equally visually striking, giving the watch a retro look. Small orange details on the dial and crown support this look. The design is also special, as fake Richard Mille has integrated an enlarged date display at four o’clock in addition to the words “Le Mans”. There is also a 24-hour counter at 1 o’clock – a function suitable for a 24-hour race.

Rolex’s upgrade this time can be said to be “unprecedented”

In the eyes of many people, Rolex is actually a bit stubborn, and many watches are sold for decades without much change, which has also attracted a lot of complaints from watch friends. And cheap Rolex seems to have heard everyone’s voice. The new watch released this year has some visible changes, especially the “left-handed” Sprite circle that everyone didn’t expect, which is really surprising. But in addition to this highly regarded “Sprite Circle” GMT, there is also a watch that has undergone very big changes and upgrades. This change can be said to be “unprecedented” for Rolex.

Among Rolex’s new watches this year, the new green and black “Sprite Circle” GMT and the new Airmaster are the two new watches that attract the most attention from players. In addition to these two sports models, there is also a heavyweight Rolex that has undergone a major facelift this year, which is Rolex’s new platinum weekday calendar DAY DATE. The new platinum DAY DATE uses a new dogtooth bezel, replacing the previous polished bezel.

Rolex platinum DAY DATE used dog tooth ring for the first time.

Rolex DAY DATE, since its birth in 1956, has launched a platinum case model. You know, from 1956 to 2021, in the past 65 years, the Rolex DAY DATE platinum case model has been using a polished bezel and has not changed.

As a result, the gold DAY DATE, rose gold DAY DATE, and platinum DAY DATE all use a dog-tooth bezel, but the platinum DAY DATE uses a polished bezel. As soon as you see the DAY DATE with the “polished bezel”, you can recognize it at a glance. This is the most expensive platinum case DD in the DAY DATE family.

But things changed this year (2022). Rolex replaced the platinum shell DAY DATE with a “dog tooth ring” and completely discontinued the “grinding ring” platinum DD. A break with a 65-year-old tradition. From then on, the Rolex DAY DATE family, regardless of gold, platinum, rose gold, or platinum, has no polished bezel, and the dog tooth ring “unifies the rivers and lakes” (except for the dog tooth, the bezel is diamond-encrusted).

Why does Rolex only use dog teeth ring for platinum DD to this day?

Because, Rolex couldn’t make platinum dog teeth ring before.

Platinum is the most valuable precious metal in watches. Compared with 18K gold such as gold, platinum, and rose gold, platinum has a high melting point and high hardness, making it difficult to recast and polish. Platinum is expensive and difficult to machine. This is why, among the famous watches, the platinum case is 30% or more higher than the public price of the 18K gold case for the same watch.

Rolex dog teeth ring, with a large number of facets and all polished, 18K gold is easy to make because it is relatively soft. In the past, platinum has not made dog tooth rings, and can only use a relatively simple polished bezel for more than 60 years. From the actual effect, the dog tooth ring has a large number of reflective surfaces, and the effect is definitely better than a simple polished bezel. It was reported before that Rolex finally broke through the manufacturing technology of platinum dog teeth, so this year, the dog teeth ring was completely changed on the platinum DAY DATE.

Rolex’s new platinum DD comes in two sizes, 40mm and 36mm.

40mm version, model number 228236.

36mm version, model number 128236.

The two models, 40mm and 36mm, are dog-tooth rings, head bracelets, and use the iconic “ice blue” dial of Rolex platinum watches. Whenever you see a Rolex with an “ice blue” dial, whether it is a DAY DATE or a Daytona, you can instantly recognize that this is a platinum Rolex. It should be noted here that in addition to the ice blue plate, Rolex’s platinum DAY DATE also has a white plate, a black plate, a silver plate, a green plate, and a gray plate, but only “ice blue” is the exclusive color of Rolex platinum watches.

Apart from the size difference, the biggest difference between the 40mm and 36mm models is the dial hour markers.

40 mm 228238: Use Rolex’s latest three-dimensional Roman numeral hour markers. The three-dimensional time scale has multiple facets, and the three-dimensional effect is very strong and very sharp. At present, this new time scale is only used on the 40mm DD.

36mm 128236: Use the regular Roman hour markers before Rolex. Although it is also a three-dimensional hour-marker, the hour-marker is only polished on the front. This kind of Roman numerals, the log-type DATEJUST is also used, and it is only used on the 36 mm size on the DAY DATE.

HYT H2 Titanium Black DLC 248-DL-00-GF-RA

In terms of size selection, the size of the gold watch is smaller, and the sense of formal wear will be stronger, and 36mm is no problem. The 40mm DAY DATE is updated in terms of design language, and 40mm can be given priority. Here I want to say one more thing, platinum watches are very heavy, even heavier than 18K gold. I have worn a friend’s platinum Rolex, platinum head platinum chain, very heavy.

The new 40mm and 36mm platinum dog tooth DDs both use Rolex’s new generation of 32 series automatic movements (3255 movement). The 32 series movement uses the new Chronergy escapement, which improves the efficiency of the movement and enhances the power of the mainspring. While maintaining 70 hours of power, it has the standard of the Rolex Super Observatory, with an error of +2/-2 seconds per day. And continue to use the Rolex blue niobium hairspring to maintain outstanding anti-magnetic ability. At present, Rolex has popularized the new generation 32 series automatic movement across the board. It has been 7 years since its launch in 2015, and the performance of the movement has passed the test of time. The small crown in the middle of SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock on the dial is a sign of the use of the new 32 series movement.

Although the market of Rolex sports models is now higher, DAY DATE has always been the flagship style of Rolex. This time, the dog-tooth ring replaced the grinding ring, and some players also said that they still prefer the platinum DD of the previous grinding ring.

Unique – Patek Philippe: World Time

Since Patek Philippe fake reintroduced its World Time watch in 2000, the cult status of this complication has reached dizzying heights, as evidenced by watch auctions over the past 20 years. But it was the enamel and cloisonné enamel dials that made it to the auction block that really made the list. why is that? What makes them so special?

To truly understand this phenomenon, it is first necessary to realize that Patek Philippe produces fewer than 1,000 World Time watches a year. Of these, only 50 to 100 have enamel dials. In addition, there are few master enamels today, and even for them the process of making the dials of these enamel models is very rigorous. Let’s take a look at a brief history of enamel and its various applications.

While the earliest decorative enamel works are found on rings found in Cypress more than 1300 years before modern times (BC), our modern techniques handcrafted by major Geneva residents date back to the late 1700s and early 1800s . The market is expanding due to increasing interest in portable timepieces.

In its purest state, enamel is a powdered glass spread over a metal surface and fired in an oven at 1,380 to 1,560°F. When it melts at extreme heat, it liquefies, flowing outward to the edges of the surface. As it cools, it hardens into a smooth and very durable coating. For each layer or color, depending on the application used, continuous firing is required. Since the glass becomes liquid, it needs bezels to prevent it from spilling over the sides of the metal substrate. The two most common techniques are Champlevé and Cloisonné. fashion replica

Champlevé is a technique in which metal is carved quite deeply to form a pool or reservoir in which the enamel can be placed, which is then fired. If the guilloche works first, the artist may want to accentuate the guilloche work and therefore use a single or thinner fire. If it’s just a deep etched engraving, the artist will usually use multiple fires, which will make the color deeper and richer, just as a car enthusiast might apply 10 clear coats of flake paint, only to put the It is polished to 5 shimmering ultra clear coats.

Cloisonne, on the other hand, took the opposite approach. It starts with a flat surface, where the artist draws the basic outlines of the design features. The artist then takes the gold or silver wire and painstakingly places it on those same contours, carefully bending the wire to match the drawing. The result is walls that form clapboards or compartments (“cloisons” in French), in which the enamel is placed before firing. This is the most important point: no two descriptions are the same. The artist has a pattern, but only when examining two or more works side-by-side do small but perceptible differences from one work to the other emerge.

Enamel dial watches reached their heights of popularity in the post-World War II period from the 1940s to the early 1960s. Dial makers such as Stern Frères and Beyeler have produced various depicting artworks for Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and Omega. However, it is important to understand that these dial companies often have to outsource this type of work to local artisans,
Only a few of them are able to provide this level of service. By the 1970s, enamel dials had all but disappeared, and the industry had all but disappeared in the wake of the “quartz crisis.”

The history of Patek Philippe World Time watches is similar to their close collaboration with Louis Cottier, who developed this complication. A separate, longer article is required to delve into this history, so I’ll save it for another time. But after the death of Louis Cottier in the late 1960s, Patek Philippe eliminated the complication entirely. Thus, in 2000, Patek Philippe launched its first World Time watch in 35 years, the 5110, with a diameter of 37 mm and a new movement, the Calibre 240 HU (Universal Time or Universal Time).

The case has an A-shaped symmetrical design, and the crown guard protrudes smoothly to the outer rim of the crown to prevent impacts. However, watch lovers who know the history of Patek Philippe enamel dial World Time watches will need to wait another 6 years before the brand relaunches one of its most coveted and cherished dial designs.

In 2006, Patek Philippe introduced the 5130, a 39.5mm case housing the now-legendary 240 HU movement. Manufactured in the same style as the 5110, albeit with slightly longer lugs, this model is an instant welcome addition to the collection as taste in men’s watches is getting closer to the 40mm mark. With its slim round bezel, the 5130 is worn visually close enough to this evolving standard to meet the needs of many customers.

With the introduction of the 5130 in 2006, Patek Philippe also expanded by adding the 5131J (gold), a cloisonné enamel dial depicting an orbital view of the Atlantic Ocean, with the Americas on the left of the dial and Europe and Africa on the right. From the moment it was released, the model sold for two to three times its retail price on the secondary market due to very low production volumes. Since almost no one has produced dials of this type since the 1960s, there are no schools offering courses to train a new generation of watchmakers and dialmakers. It was passed down by artists who were willing to take apprentices, and even Patek Philippe had to hire local Geneva artists.

The 5131J is followed by the 5131G (white gold), which depicts a view of the Asian orbit centered on India, with Africa and Europe on the left, most of Asia at 12 o’clock, and Australia and East Asia on the right of the dial. This dial was followed by 5131R (rose gold), depicting a view of the Pacific Ocean with the Americas on the right and Asia and Australia on the left. All 3 variants are available on alligator leather straps with deployment clasp. The series concludes with the release of the 5131/1P (Platinum), depicting views of the Arctic ice sheets, with Asia and Europe on the right, and Greenland and North America on the left. Since the piece is on a platinum bracelet, the watch costs twice as much as any gold piece,

In 2016, Patek Philippe decided to completely redesign the case and delved into its extensive catalog to create the 5230, at the same time releasing the extension 5231J. Patek Philippe aims to differentiate it from its siblings in a number of ways, starting with its size. Noting the growing trend of Asian customers and Europeans towards smaller dress watches, the brand decided to reduce the World Time from its 39.5mm 5130 case size to a more elegant 38.5mm size. The difference, by itself, is almost imperceptible on the wrist. But more strikingly, Patek Philippe decided to ditch the crown guard in favor of a symmetrical case design. Another detail they changed, and one that the author likes, is that the lugs can flow off the case smoothly.

The 5321J was released with the now classic Atlantic orbital view, very similar to the 5131J, but with an arguably more colorful dial. Also, as mentioned, each dial is unique to each model, and even looking at the pictures of any particular model, you’ll notice that the lay of the gold line outlines and the color of the continent is slightly different.

Indeed, to own a piece of cloisonne enamel is to own a “one-of-a-kind piece,” which is why these pieces require a large investment from the initial buyer, and why they command such a high premium on the secondary market and at auction. When we look back at the enamel dials of the 1950s and ’60s, if history is any guide, these pieces invested in today will pay for a second home 30 to 40 years later, and why “you never really owned a Patek Philippe . You Just taking care of it for the next generation.” quality replica watches in store

First Look: The Unshakable Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal

Anyone interested in tennis and watching Spanish superstar Rafael Nadal play will notice something unusual: the intimidating cruelty inherent in the athlete’s body language, expressed through several characteristics; The strong moan on the second shot, or his aggressive shot, was so forceful that every finger was protected by tape. Sometimes, the calluses on his hands bleed.

Rafael Nadal is like a machine on a tennis court, running at full speed without stopping. His eyes are cold and focused, and every build-up is a matter of life and death; luckily, not in reality, but in game—in his game—dressed to perfection.

Rafael Nadal’s tourbillon
The force that Rafael Nadal’s special racket has to withstand is enormous. Nadal has a special technique of using his wrist to give the tennis ball a special spin with each stroke. On the pitch, no player can get more spin on the ball.

Ten years ago now, the watchmaker fake Richard Mille inspired him to develop a watch that could withstand this force on the wrist. Not only that, but he also decided that it should be a tourbillon – a highly refined, sensitive mechanism. The idea was both ridiculous and ingenious, and Richard Mille was able to grab the attention of Rafael Nadal. On the first try, when Richard Mille strapped a watch with a platinum case around the athlete’s wrist, Nadal was visibly confused by the heavy weight. Of course, Richard Mille’s mental trick was simply to use a heavy watch against him first, instead of immediately handing him the RM 027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, which weighs only 20 grams. Nadal was excited. In 2010, he won the U.S. Open for the first time and, more importantly, won the championship for the first time wearing a watch.

That was a decade ago, and seven more models followed that were always technologically superior to the rest, making waves in both aesthetics and price. The two perfectionists, Richard Miller and Rafael Nadal, have become close friends, often meeting privately off the court. “When I’m with Richard Mille, I don’t get bored, spending time with him is always so inspiring,” Nadal enthused. On the occasion of this 10-year partnership, Richard Mille now presents an anniversary model that once again surpasses all previous models. It’s also probably more than we ever imagined how much a watch could cost.

RM 27-04 Tourbillon Raphael Nadal
The latest model weighs only 30 grams including the strap. Although the first RM 27 model in 2010 was 10 grams lighter, the new RM 27-04 can handle accelerations in excess of 12,000 grams – a Richard Mille record. By comparison, a Formula 1 driver has around 5 g of acceleration when cornering. Acceleration on the coaster hits 6 grams, and at about 8 grams, an inexperienced driver can lose consciousness. The unique mesh structure, which protrudes into the case like a tennis racket and absorbs vibrations like a tennis string, undoubtedly brings incredible resistance to the watch.

Taking inspiration from the strings of tennis rackets, the movement is supported by a finely radiating mesh structure measuring just 855 square millimeters. It consists of a braided steel wire rope with a diameter of only 0.27mm. Hand-wound tourbillon movement, calibre RM27-04, attached to the grid with the help of five polished grade 5 titanium hooks, starting from the bottom of the movement plate with a 5N gold-plated coating. As with winding, the watchmaker first pulls all the longitudinal strings and then crosses the cross strings so that the thread passes above and below the longitudinal strings. The splints and bridges are made of an alloy of 90% grade 5 titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium, with a black PVD ​​coating. Super hard alloys ensure particularly smooth running of the wheel train,

a special case
For the first time, the case of the new RM 27-04 is made of “TitaCarb”, which is sandblasted and polished. This high-performance polyamide is reinforced with 38.5% carbon fiber; the addition of carbon gives “TitaCarb” a special tensile strength (370 MPa or 3,700 kg/cm). As a result, the material is not only nearly as resistant to breakage as steel, but also resistant to moisture and temperature, perfectly suited to the demands of a player like Rafael Nadal for a watch. The case is water resistant to 50 m thanks to two nitrile O-rings, assembled by eight grade 5 titanium spline screws and 316L stainless steel washers. fashion replica watches

feature
Brand: Richard Mille
Model: RM 27-04 Tourbillon Raphael Nadal
Reference: RM 27-04
Case material: TitaCarb® – exclusive to Richard Mille
Aspects: Diameter: 38.40 x 47.25 mm
Height: 11.40mm
Water resistance: 5 bar (~ 50 m)
Dial: Skeletonized
Strap/Bracelet: Textile Strap
Mobile: RM27-04
Movement Type: Manual
Power reserve: 38 hours (±10%)
Frequency: 21,600 beats/hour (3 Hz)
Function: hours, minutes

Learn more about what’s new in Rolex for 2022

Well, it’s that time of year again. It seems like just yesterday, we were talking about the lack of changes on the 50th Anniversary Explorer II and the polarized 36mm bi-color Explorer. Nonetheless, now is the time for us to once again explore, dissect and delve into cheap Rolex novelties. This latest batch of novelties is undeniably polarizing, to say the least. With some hits from releases and shutdowns, this year has certainly been a year of divided opinion, with some works coming straight from the left.

Left-handed GMT-Master II, or right-handed?
In one of the most interesting releases of the year, Rolex announced their first left-handed model, a variant of the GMT-Master II, ref. 126720VTNR. With its winding crown at 9 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock on every previous watch, this “destro” variant is said to be the brainchild of Rolex’s left-handed CEO and rocks in exciting and unusual ways The Rolex series fashion. Featuring a black and green Cerachrom bezel, the watch introduced a new colour combination to Rolex’s classic collection and earned it the “Sprite” moniker after soda.

Constructed from stainless steel and with a black dial, like its Pepsi and Batman sibling variants, this will undoubtedly be a difficult watch to get started with, with a long waiting list and a premium secondary market. While it was designed for left-handed collectors to be worn on the right hand, it will no doubt be found on the left hand of many collectors looking for something a little different.

new king of the sky
Under the slogan “Get ready to take to the skies”, Rolex has introduced a brand new product for its iconic Air-King model. Originally launched in 1956 as a cheap watch for pilots, the Air-King was a tool watch, so this latest model has been updated to match its heritage.

Its changes include illuminated 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, an upgraded Glidelock clasp, a larger dial, and a crown guard that protects the crown from shocks. Perhaps the most notable surprise is the relatively unchanged Air-King dial. Inspired by the dials produced by Rolex for the Bloodhound LSR, a rocket-powered car that failed to break the land speed world record, it is thought that the Air-King will finally get a new dial when the time comes. Instead, Rolex has slightly altered the dial so that the “5” at 1 o’clock has a “0” in front of it to improve the symmetry between the numbers.

Day-Date has a new bezel
In addition to a long list of fascinating new dial variants added to the Day-Date collection, such as the onyx dial or the beautiful green sunburst dial they added to the collection, Rolex finally gives us the option of fluted platinum The bezels are on their most luxurious and iconic models. While the fluted bezel has a long history in Rolex’s catalog, it’s only available in gold. The Platinum Day-Date was previously only available with a flat bezel. This is due to the difficulty of working on platinum and creating sharp angles. Finally, this year Rolex has addressed any issues holding them back from offering a platinum fluted bezel and created a range of 36mm and 40mm platinum Day-Date variants featuring the iconic piece.

Yacht-Master 42 Expansion
Rolex was widely expected to introduce a new titanium variant to the Yacht-Master collection due to the existence of the titanium YM42 prototype worn by the Rolex Sailing Ambassador, but they decided to give us an 18kt yellow gold Yacht-Master 42. Joining the 18kt white gold in the 42mm variant, this completes the Yacht-Master presentation as it now comes in every gold alloy and rose gold offered in 42mm and 40mm and 37mm. In addition to the new materials, Rolex is also equipping the Yacht-Master with a new “Falcon’s Eye” dial with a stunning grain pattern and vibrant colors ranging from blue to green.

Diary Dial for Everyone
Following on from the precedent they have set over the past few years, with new Datejust dials entering the market every year, Rolex has launched an extensive range of dials for the Datejust, which undoubtedly means there is something for everyone, if not already . In addition to expanding the Palm and Fluted pattern dials to the 41mm collection, Rolex is also introducing a new sunburst green dial across its entire size range for the Datejust, as well as a new beautiful floral pattern for the 31mm model only. . Available in stunning shades of blue, silver or green, its surface is embellished with diamonds for a stunning effect.

Discontinued Galore
Perhaps the biggest shock so far this year is not the new models and novelties that Rolex has introduced, but the models that Rolex has discontinued. In addition to the older models that the new models have now replaced, Rolex discontinued some very popular watches. Sadly, some of our favorites have already gotten the stamp. The 41mm Oyster Perpetual’s three most popular dial styles; Coral Red, “Tiffany” Turquoise Blue and Yellow. In 36mm, it’s the same as they discontinued the coral red and yellow variants but kept the turquoise color. Considering the short 18-month lifespan of these dials and their incredible popularity with long waiting lists and huge secondary market demand, this is a very interesting and very surprising move.

In addition to the Oyster Perpetual, Rolex discontinued the flat-bezel Platinum Day-Date model and the entire Cellini line, except for one, the Moon Phase model. As their only genuine dress watch, it’s hard to imagine Rolex not taking into account the renewal of the Cellini collection, given its historic significance to Rolex. Like every year, there will be people who love the changes and some who hate them. While we’re happy with these novelties, we’re sorry to say goodbye to some of the most stunning and beloved dials Rolex has ever created. Not to mention they look incredible with our Rolex straps. It’s also valuable, isn’t it?

Greubel Forsey GMT Platinum

Can a watch tell the time anywhere on earth? Well, Greubel Forsey GMT of course

Born for innovation
Founded in 2004 by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey on the premise that not everything in watchmaking has been invented, Greubel Forsey is known as a watchmaker who is constantly seeking to push the boundaries. 17 years later, GF is one of the best and most respected independent brands in the world.

While brands around the world often claim that their inventions are revolutionary, innovative or just completely new, we often find that this is just sales talk. In an industry rife with recycling designs, recycling mechanisms, and sometimes lacking the need for fresh ideas from the community intoxicated in social media echo chambers, Greubel Forsey is a breath of fresh air. Trying different things and challenging the status quo is what makes this indie game so successful.

Shake the core of the industry
Building on the need to accept their previous limitations, we know Greubel Forsey is serious when they say they have created something we have never seen before. So when Greubel Forsey released their latest version of GMT Earth in 2018, the industry pricked up their ears and paid attention to what they created.

While the name GMT is very understated compared to what other watchmakers have named their watches, there is no doubt that it is one of the most complicated watches the brand has ever made. Just looking at the watch face can be tiresome until I get to the complication, which is complex enough to give a brain teaser. Seriously, look at the dial and soak it in. This is the pinnacle of 21st century watchmaking, and for good reason.

Function and Design
Starting with the simplest functions, the overall dial layout of the GMT begins with a sapphire dial at 2 o’clock, indicating the hours and minutes in local time, which incorporates a small seconds sub-dial alongside a power reserve indicator. The second time zone is indicated by a red triangular hand at 10 o’clock and is operated by a pusher at 10 o’clock on the case. This completes the more “traditional” complications on this incredible timepiece.

Filling the lower half of the GMT display is the artistry that makes this piece so unique, and where it gets its name. From the 4 o’clock position, we have a 24-second tilting tourbillon. Tourbillons tend to ensure that the tourbillon is never in extreme positions: perfectly vertical or horizontal. Next, we have a 3D model of the Earth we call home (not the watch itself, though that would be beautiful). This model Earth rotates in real time, thus providing a view of universal time, acting as a kind of world timer.

24-second tilting tourbillon at 4 o’clock. The 3D model of the Earth rotates in real time, providing a global view of time.

While not very accurate, using the Earth model, we can calculate the approximate time anywhere in the field of view by drawing a line through the area to the hour ring around the Earth. The ring also provides quick day and night vision by using its two-tone nature, just like a traditional two-tone GMT bezel.

Turning to the case back, the complication continues with a “real” world timer, providing more accurate readings for 24 different cities around the world. By distinguishing between cities that are marked in silver and not marked as black, we can read the time of the listed cities by reading one of the two 24-hour rings, regardless of the time of year – summer or winter–. Sitting next to Universal Time is a sculpted sun, the Greubel Forsey GMT symbol.

Architecture and Aesthetics
Finally, pulling our gaze away from the intricacy of the mechanics at the heart of this incredible piece, we can see the beauty of GMT’s construction. The GMT replica watches online is housed in a 45.5mm white gold case, not a traditionally shaped watch. With the 7 o’clock position protruding to accommodate the Earth sitting there, we begin to understand what makes this timepiece unique.

As the brand puts it, its bezel is “engraved with an inscription that encapsulates the key values ​​of Robert Gaupper and Stephen Fauci,” and GMT won’t let your eyes rest for a moment. Rich in visual appeal, otherworldly finishes and a hypnotic duo of a 24-second tourbillon and a rotating model globe, the Greubel Forsey GMT seems to defy logic, but it’s there.