Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze 45mm

Bronze…not a typical watch material – especially a pilot’s watch. Bronze has been used many times in watchmaking, but it makes more sense in diving watches (even though, to be honest, bronze is still an odd choice for a timepiece. We’ll discuss why later in this article). When you think of bronze, you immediately think of Panerai, but other brands use it (eg IWC and Aquatimer). Now it’s Zenith’s turn to launch a watch in this green metal. It’s a pilot watch, it’s big, but it looks really cool. This is the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze 45mm.

The Zenith Pilot Type 20 became an iconic and easily recognizable timepiece among all pilot-oriented watches. Even though it has many classic aviator-style attributes, the Type 20 (not related to the Breguet Type XX, but rather to a specific serial number of a French navy-specific instrument) has its own design, its own style, its own feel and what makes it Something special. Of course, the collection consists of large to very large pieces. You might think of the already huge Montre D’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Pilot and its 48mm case. You might also think of the huge 60mm (yes, 6cm) Zenith Pilot Type 20 with its Grand Feu enamel dial. However, keep in mind that the collection also includes a small (compared to the rest) 40mm version, Made for women or men with discreet intentions, and a medium Extra-Special model measuring 45mm, now available in a bronze case. swiss cheap watches

45mm may sound huge, but remember that a significant part of the fun a pilot’s watch provides comes from its sheer size. In the golden age of aviator instruments, a design attribute now is the need for legibility. Major cases are both respect for historical works and respect for normalcy. As such, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special’s 45mm case has a standard feel – second only to the 46mm IWC Big Pilot or the 47mm Oris Big Crown ProPilot altimeter. The shape is the same as its larger sister, with these Specific lugs and strap accessories. Crowns are also typical of the range, with round and large onion shapes (this shape is a good point as the classic and sharp onion crowns tend to hurt). The main novelty: the material used for the case. The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze 45mm is made of… Bronze. What an odd choice for a pilot’s watch! Whatever the reason for this choice, the results are excellent. It’s warm, rough, and brings a suitably vintage vibe to an already retro-oriented watch. The case has a rough satin finish, again emphasizing the antique look.

Now you should be asking why we find bronze to be an odd choice for a watch – whatever it is, diver or not. In fact, bronze is unstable and ages quickly when exposed to water, acid, heat, or just sweating. This means that your beautiful gold Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special will see its case covered in green oxide after wearing it for weeks/months. Nothing bad as it will give it a special and unique sheen, but it’s something you have to pay attention to (you can easily clean it and remove this oxide). www.moonphase-watch.com

This bronze case complements the look of the dial and hands and is very successful. Everything in the Type 20 (regardless of version) is reminiscent of (very) early pilot watches – not the 1940s/1950s ones we usually see in retro reissues, but the 1910s/1920s Those of the era (such as this one created by Zenith for Louis Bleriot in the 1910s) are evident from the large Arabic numerals (here painted with luminous material) and the shape of the typical cathedral hands. Gold hands and slightly creamy numerals contrast on the matte black dial, which complements the bronze case. The overall result is very pleasing.

Inside the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze is the in-house movement Elite 679, a nice three-hand self-winding movement (no longer a Sellita movement. It’s a good sign that Zenith cheap has launched its own movement) Known for reliability, precision and aesthetics). The movement consists of 126 components and has a power reserve of at least 50 hours. Measuring just 3.85mm in height and 25.6mm in diameter, the movement promises to be hidden behind a sturdy caseback – it would be odd to see the movement through the sapphire caseback in the 45mm case. The same applies to dates, but fortunately, that complication is not present here. Case back made of titanium (bronze can cause irritation if in direct contact with the skin),

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Launches “Poker Chips”

Reimagine the G383 in the disco era.

I am happy to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, which is a collaborative version inspired by the El Primero G383 in the disco era, but with a lot of redesigned luminous-the dial is disco-style at night and during the day.

Brief background
Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because of its historical significance for its chronographs and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the watches produced by the brand are both attractive and affordable. So working with Zenith is a breeze for me-because it means I can create my fantasy El Primero.

One of my favorite Zenith vintage watches is the G383. This is a truly stylish watch, and its design is undoubtedly the style of the late 1960s and 1970s-the dial is on the top, a real disco.

But one-on-one retro remakes have never interested me (and I don’t like the small lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s product development director, and we spent a few months together to perfect the concept and create the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”.

At the same time, poker chips will be easier to obtain than our past version. It is as affordable as the usual price of Zenith watches-in fact, its cost is only 10% higher than the Chronomaster Revival A386 steel watch-but it will also be more widely available.

Unlike our Habring 2 and Kudoke SJX versions which are only available on SJX watches and sold out almost immediately, poker chips are the result of a collaboration between us and Zenith. It is still a limited edition, but it will also be available in Zenith boutiques, after our initial exclusive sales period-click here to express interest.

“Poker Chips”
Like our past version, poker chips are considered easily recognizable as replica Zenith, but it is very different from the other designs of the brand—a great idea is extracted from history and reimagined for today.

Therefore, the classic 38mm El Primero case from 1969 is retained, but it uses micro-blasted titanium for the first time (other models with the same case are made of steel).

Similarly, the dial design can be traced back to the earliest stages of El Primero. G383 was launched in 1969 with a crazy fan-shaped layout in black, white and gold, reminiscent of poker chips.

The unique style among the vintage El Primero models is also very rare-only about 200 units have been produced-the G383 is relatively unknown today, perhaps because the luxurious appearance is not suitable for everyone, especially its unusual lugs.

Reinterpretation
Modern Poker Chip transforms the aesthetics of the original work into something eye-catching with a modern style, but once you recognize the historical inspiration, the taste of the disco era becomes obvious.

The dial is dark gray, divided into matte black parts, with a Super-Luminova luminous pattern on the top, which reproduces the layout of the retro original-but with luminous.

Thanks to the generous Super-Luminova luminous on the dial, the “Poker Chips” pattern is obvious both day and night-although I do think it is more noticeable in the dark.

In order to play the best effect at night, this watch is also equipped with an extra strap soaked with Super-Luminova luminous material to make the whole strap glow. Credit for the luminous strap goes to Romain and his team.

Because the dial is too cool, the case is limited, while retaining the retro classic style. Like the Chronomaster Revival model and the vintage El Primero A386, this case has a 38mm compact design, but minimalism.

It is a micro-sandblasted titanium metal that gives the case a fine dark gray finish, and then the coating enhances its wear resistance and helps prevent fingerprints from showing.

Inside the case is the El Primero 400, which is basically the same movement as the G383 and all other El Primero models from 1969.

Zenith had already launched a new version of the El Primero movement when it started this project last year, so you can choose the movement. We decided to use the original El Primero for two reasons.

The fact is that as the latest version of the movement becomes more popular throughout the Zenith series, I expect the original El Primero will gradually become less common. The second is to reimagine the aesthetics of vintage watches but retain the mild irony of the same movement.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”
Ref. 97.G383.400.38.C880

Diameter: 38 mm
Material: Titanium, micro-sandblasting
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 meters

Movement: El Primero 400
Functions: hour, minute, second, date and chronograph
Frequency: 36,000 times per hour (5 Hz)
Chain: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Black fabric pin buckle with luminous fabric strap