The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono makes its debut in 2020. All three debut models feature a Raptor-themed dial, a case made of Lucent steel A223 and a state-of-the-art in-house Chopard caliber 03-05-C. Chopard initially offered steel bracelets and recently introduced two rubber straps. Looking at these latest styles, Angus Davies reflects on the extraordinary success of the Alpine Eagle collection.

The advent of the luxury sports watch
Until the 1970s, watches tended to be either formal or utilitarian items (such as dive watches or sports chronographs). In the 1970s, however, the lines between formal and casual wear, classic dress watches and utilitarian watches suddenly blurred.

The 1970s saw a new breed of sports watch capable of straddling the world of blazers and jeans. In addition, stainless steel has completed its studies in Switzerland and presents a noble temperament similar to precious metals such as gold and platinum.

Chopard St. Moritz
Recognizing the paradigm shift that was taking place at the time, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele masterminded a new form of watch, the luxury sports best replica watches. In 1980, Geneva Maison launched St. Moritz, named after the high-end, glamorous Alpine resort.

The choice of the name was inspired by the fact that it evokes the idea of a stylish person who wears a ski suit by day and a tuxedo by night. Chopard St. Moritz watches are versatile and adapt to their surroundings.

The St. Moritz model was designed in keeping with Louis Sullivan’s “form follows function” philosophy. For example, the bezel is held in place by eight screws, which is also a style feature. Chopard is also “steel like gold”, the case is brushed and polished, the bracelet is integrated, and the movement includes automatic movement and quartz movement. The decision to make St. Moritz was a brave one. While rival companies have also released their interpretations of luxury sports watches, there’s no guarantee the genre will continue to be popular. Over time, people’s love for luxury sports watches has never waned.

In 2019, in consideration of St. Moritz and its remarkable success, Chopard released a new luxury sports watch “Alpine Eagle”. In this case, the Geneva brand was inspired by nature. It seeks to capture the majesty of eagles soaring above the Swiss Alps, taking advantage of thermals as they glide peacefully.

Chopard references these regal creatures with a number of aesthetic elements, including a dial that mimics the iris of an eagle and a seconds hand with an arrow-feather-like weight that mimics the feathers of an eagle.

Similar to the St. Moritz, the Alpine Eagle uses a combination of Roman numerals and simple batons to indicate the hours. Likewise, the bezel is again equipped with utility screws, and the bracelet is integrated into the case. And when it comes to the bracelet, Chopard has spent incredible effort creating an elegant way of integrating the watch with its wearer. Shortly after the first model was announced, I wrote two in-depth features on the Alpine Eagle, one of which was about the model’s modifications.

Both the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel, but Chopard did not settle for the usual 316L or 904L grades. Instead, the brand has teamed up with Voestalpine, an Austrian company that specializes in cutting-edge steel technology. After four years of research and development, a new generation of steel Lucent Steel A223 was born.

Made from 70% recycled steel, the new steel is similar to surgical stainless steel and therefore hypoallergenic. Lucent Steel A223 is 50% harder than regular stainless steel and less likely to scratch. In addition, its purer structure gives the metal its white appearance.

The first version of the Alpine Eagle came in two sizes, 36mm and 41mm. Both models are equipped with COSC-certified automatic movements manufactured in the company’s Fleurier Ebauches factory.

A strong sign of a product’s success is the brand’s choice to extend a range of models. In 2020, after receiving a positive response to the first Alpine Eagle, Chopard cheap released the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono.

Wearers can choose between an Aletsch Blue dial or a Pitch Black dial, both paired with a Lucent Steel A223 case and matching bracelet. Additionally, a third model was released with the same jet-black dial, but this time it features a bi-metal case made of Lucent Steel A223 and 18-karat ethical rose gold. This luxurious combination extends to the bracelet and buckle, with precious metals being used exclusively for the bezel and crown.

Chopard 03.05-C
In addition to its attractive face and sculpted torso, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is equipped with a remarkable movement, the Chopard 03-05-C. This self-winding chronograph movement is again produced in-house at the company’s Fleurier factory and has many features, including some very impressive patented technology.

The COSC-certified movement has a flyback function. For a normal chronograph, the stopwatch is started by pressing the pusher at 2 o’clock and stopped by pressing the same pusher again. To reset the register (return to zero), the wearer simply presses the pusher at 4 o’clock. Everything is very simple and logical. However, imagine if you needed to time consecutive events and suddenly the index numbers had to start, stop, reset, and start again very quickly. It’s a challenge for even the most dexterous of people.

A flyback chronograph takes the hassle out of timing consecutive events. It can be used like a traditional chronograph, but its flyback function provides additional convenience. Assuming the chronograph is running, the wearer simply presses the pusher at 4 o’clock and in the blink of an eye the chronograph is stopped, reset and starts from zero. The flyback function of this particular movement is patented and uses three rotating hammers with elastic arms to reset the counter to zero.

top luxury copy watches lovers will be pleased to hear that the Chopard 03-05-C is a fully integrated movement with column wheel and vertical coupler. This gives the putter a creamy smoothness. Furthermore, when the chronograph is activated, the central chronograph seconds hand begins its journey without hesitation or hesitation. In addition, Chopard has equipped the movement with a patented unidirectional transmission system that “prevents energy loss while ensuring rapid winding, a feature highly regarded in the inherently power-hungry chronograph category”.

The oscillating weight is partially skeletonized and made of tungsten. The balance beats at 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement has a power reserve of 60 hours.

Earlier this year, Chopard launched two other Alpine Eagle XL Chrono watches at the Watches & Wonders show. Clearly, the success of the eagle-themed model shows no signs of abating.

Familiarity is the order of the day. The 44mm case is also made of Lucent Steel A223. Aletsch Blue and Pitch Black dials recreate performance, while the tried and trusted Chopard 03-05-C is on hand to offer another chronograph performance.

However, this year’s Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono ditches the elaborate bracelet found on previous models in favor of a color-coordinated blue and black strap. Each strap has a titanium insert and has a pin buckle made of Lucent Steel A223.

These differences may sound insignificant, but in fact, they give the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono a completely different look. Arguably, these latest styles are more casual with a touch of sportiness that brings a little something new.

Throughout Chopard’s history, the company has considered the wants and needs of the watch-buying public, creating watches that meet those demands and inspire enthusiasm in the process. In fact, it was this careful attitude that led Karl-Friedrich Schaefer to conceive the St. Moritz watch at the age of 22. This previous model blends elegance with everyday versatility and practicality.

Alpine Eagle continues the St. Moritz legend and now attracts a new generation of brand advocates. The success of the inaugural Alpine Eagle and subsequent iterations of the Raptor-inspired model is evidence of this.

I can’t honestly say that I prefer a Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono with a steel or rubber strap, but, like all watch lovers, I’m certainly glad to have more options.

technical specifications
Model: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
Ref: 298609-3003 (Lucent Steel A223 with Aletsch Blue dial)
Ref: 298609-3004 (Lucent Steel A223 with jet black dial)
Case: Lucent Steel A223, diameter 44.0 mm, height 13.15 mm, sapphire crystal and display case back
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, semi-instantaneous date, stop-seconds, tachymeter, chronograph
Movement: Chopard 03.05-C, automatic, 28,800 vph (4Hz); 310 components; 45 jewels, 60-hour power reserve, certified chronometer (COSC)
Bracelet: Blue or black rubber strap with titanium inlays, Lucent Steel A223 pin buckle

CORUM Golden Bridge – Avant-Garde Watchmaking

The story of the Corum Watch Golden Bridge is extraordinary. One day, Vincent Calabrese, a young watchmaker from the idyllic town of Lacau-de-Fonds, knocked on the door of the Corum watch to introduce his latest invention: a strange-looking Rectangular movement. He probably did not know that from now on, this would become the movement of the flagship complication watch of Corum, and it has remained the benchmark to this day!

That was in the late 1970s – and CORUM founder René Bannwart was so excited that he immediately patented this unique movement. By the way, Vincent Calabrese still works for CORUM to this day and supports the team in developing the latest Golden Bridge creations.

The CORUM Golden Bridge replica is considered an avant-garde watch because of its unique movement placed in the center of the transparent sapphire crystal case. The watch’s name is affectionately dedicated to San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate Bridge – and you can see why.

Since the Golden Bridge watch was first introduced in 1980, its collection has grown steadily. Here are some important milestones: In 2009, Corum presented its new exclusive movement (CO 007), which was designed, developed and assembled in-house! In 2011, the CORUM Bridges collection launched its first linear-winding automatic movement: the Golden Bridge Automatic. With it on, you can see the little “sled” running up and down!

In 2016, CORUM launched the first Golden Bridge with a round case designed by Dino Modolo, which you can see in the center of our picture! The inside of the case shows a cutaway view of the Golden Gate Bridge building. We also got our hands on this year’s novelty “Golden Bridge Rectangle” which will be available during Baselworld at the end of March! A clever combination of all the golden bridge elements in a slightly smaller case that is also suitable for smaller wrists.

On the left side of the picture, you can see the beautiful 18k gold standard gold bridge hand-wound, showing three different styles in the history of the golden bridge. It’s really not easy to pick a favorite. wholesale replica watches

“Time Poetry Journey” by Van Cleef & Arpels

Parisian jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A) is hosting a major exhibition of its fine jewellery and complicated watches in Singapore.

Known for their innovative, quirky mechanisms and sophisticated finishes, VC&A has gone all out. The event features some of the brand’s most luxurious creations, from fascinating complicated watches to incredible high-jewelry sets.

One of the central themes of the exhibition is the brand’s most famous complication, the two-way retrograde display of two lovers on the bridge, the Pont des Amoureux.

Another part of the exhibition is dedicated to the brand’s astronomical complications, including the Lady Arpels Planetarium, a compact 38mm watch that captures the movements of Mercury, Venus, Earth and the Moon on its 3D dial.

Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux – an elegant, effortless combination of high jewellery and innovative watchmaking

Lady Arpels Planetarium – Time is indicated by shooting stars orbiting the dial

At the same time, VC&A is also showcasing its haute horlogerie infused with modern technology. One of the exhibits is the entire Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux collection, each with a luminous constellation dial. The secret of the lighting system lies in a piezoelectric material, activated by the vibrations of the movement, which in turn lights up the LEDs behind the translucent enamel beads that make up the constellation.

Also on display is a range of historical objects from the brand’s museum, including pocket watches, wallet watches, and bracelet watches such as the famous Cadenas bracelet.

But the exhibition is not just about bling and gadgets. A room is dedicated to an in-depth exploration of the brand’s technological achievements. Attending to explain VC&A’s exclusive complications was Rainer Bernard, head of watch development. best online watch store

the new Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Greubel Forsey copy combines ergonomics, technology and architecture to create the first sports watch.

When it comes to the field of complicated watches, Greubel Forsey is the absolute ruler of the land. Every year I sit at their SIHH press conference with pencil and notebook in hand, hoping I understand at least part of it. Granted, I’ve come a long way since my first Greubel Forsey press conference, when I just sat there in complete confusion, like I walked into an astrophysics class in anticipation of art history (by the way, I did it in college).

Anyway, enough rambling to cheer us up on the all-new Greubel Forsey GMT Sport.

Start from the outside
The new Greubel Forsey GMT Sport continues the sporty black design of the GMT Black introduced in 2015, however, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have redefined almost every element of the GMT Black to create something completely different.

Let’s start with a freshly shaped shell that puts comfort and ergonomics at the center. It features a lightweight and ultra-strong 45mm profiled titanium case that is rounded at the top but arched and oval when viewed from other angles for maximum wrist comfort. The case features one-piece lugs and a one-piece strap that fits perfectly. Just to give you an idea of ​​the intricacies of this “small” system, it’s the subject of four patents.

The case features a satin-finished bezel engraved with Greubel Forsey‘s values ​​and an oval sapphire crystal that perfectly reflects the new movement architecture.

New movement architecture
The GMT Sport is equipped with a new hand-wound movement with a power reserve of 72 hours (guaranteed by two coaxial barrels connected in series). The movement consists of up to 435 components, all finished to the highest standards in the Greubel Forsey workshop.

The 24-second tourbillon at 1 o’clock represents the third “fundamental invention” of the watchmaking duo after the 30° double tourbillon and the quadruple tourbillon. This new tourbillon stands out with a 25° inclined cage that makes one revolution every 24 hours. This inclination, combined with the increased speed, significantly improves the timekeeping performance of this single tourbillon system without increasing the height of the movement.

Dial Tour
In keeping with the sporty theme of the GMT Sport, the dial has been designed with an emphasis on legibility and efficiency. Hours and minutes are displayed by concentric curved skeleton hands that follow the curvature of the case and movement. The gear train is mounted on a suspended black-coated arched bridge that overlooks the globe and drives the hour and minute hands. A subdial between 10 and 11 o’clock shows the small seconds on a rotating disc and a second time zone. The power reserve differential at three o’clock has skeleton hands and red arrows.

GMT Mechanism
Greubel Forsey’s GMT complication debuted in 2011 and holds two patents. It works by reading a second time zone on a secondary dial between 10 and 11 o’clock, which can then be combined with the universal time display provided by a rotating globe. The earth is surrounded by a sapphire crystal ring with a 24-hour scale, so users can read the local time at all longitudes, as well as see if it is day or night.

On the back side of the GMT Sport, the outer and center rings indicate UTC Universal Time and Daylight Saving Time for the 24 cities in the major time zones. This disc shows which time zones follow DST (light colors) and which time zones do not (dark colors). Two buttons located on the left side of the case change the second time zone and synchronize the local time with the earth.

final details
Water-resistant to 100 meters, the GMT Sport comes with a black or blue rubber strap and is limited to 11 pieces.

Well, that’s another magnificent creation from Greubel Forsey, with a new sporty look and feel, intuitive reading and exciting mechanics. I was told it wasn’t something they “finished” in a hurry either!