The Return of the Zenith Defy
In the 1970s, the advent of quartz replica watches triggered a crisis for mechanical watchmakers, who seemed poised for decline. The Defy proved its worth. It survived the quartz era, albeit undergoing some evolution and ultimately transitioning to battery-powered watches. In 1999, Zenith and TAG Heuer were merged into the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, where the brand remains today and has grown into a significant manufacturer.
But first, the brand’s style underwent a dramatic shift, and the Defy collection was no exception. Thierry Nataf (CEO from 2001 to 2010) wanted to awaken Zenith, the “sleeping beauty.” He achieved this goal with the Defy, establishing it as a standalone sports luxury watch line in 2006. One of the Defy’s signature elements was its then-unique combination of gold with titanium, carbon, steel, and rubber.
These watches initially enjoyed considerable success. However, it soon became apparent that their ornate designs lacked the substance needed to become an iconic brand. In 2010, Jean-Frédéric Dufour took over as CEO of Zenith and Rolex. He led Zenith—and the Defy collection—back to a more tranquil landscape, returning to a bold, sporty aesthetic anchored by superior mechanical performance and more accessible pricing. Zenith thus reaffirmed its place among true watch connoisseurs.
In 2017, Julien Tornare succeeded Dufour as president of the brand. With a completely redesigned collection, he ultimately set the Defy on the path to success.
The Defy El Primero 21, launched in 2017—A Triumphant Return
The Defy El Primero 21, unveiled at the 2017 Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show, marked the beginning of this remarkable success story. Thanks to its new high-frequency calibre 9004, featuring two independent oscillating and escapement systems, it became the world’s first series-produced high-frequency wristwatch capable of automatically measuring time to an accuracy of 1/100th of a second. This 50Hz movement, equipped with a dedicated chronograph mechanism, is housed in a 44mm case. Available in several versions, the titanium and skeletonized dial versions are particularly popular among watch enthusiasts.
In 2018, the Defy collection’s success story reached a new stage with the release of the titanium Defy Classic. This three-hand model with a date display is available in a skeletonized version with a skeletonized dial or a sealed version with an elegant sunburst dial. All models are powered by the brand’s in-house 670SK automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The 41mm case, with a sapphire crystal caseback, also features a skeletonized, blackened movement with a silicon pallet fork and escape wheel in the sealed dial version.
In 2020, fake Zenith also launched the Defy Classic Carbon, the brand’s first watch made entirely of carbon fiber. Weighing a mere 65 grams, it features an integrated bracelet for comfort.
