Audemars Piguet Launches Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Purple Diamond Watch

Since its inception in the 1980s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch has continued to evolve, developing a variety of models. Today, the Maison combines precious materials and bold colors with a new boutique-exclusive edition (26598BC.ZZ.1220BC.01). The new watch features a 41 mm 18K white gold case with a purple “Grande Tapisserie” dial and a baguette-cut diamond-set bezel.

The new watch is 41 mm in diameter and 9.5 mm thick. The case is made of 18K white gold and is brushed and polished. It is equipped with an anti-glare sapphire crystal mirror, a screw-in crown and a see-through case back, and has a water resistance of 20 meters. The 18K white gold bezel is fixed with eight hexagonal screws, which is the signature feature of the Royal Oak series. The top surface is inlaid with 32 baguette-cut diamonds, showing luxury.

The purple dial is engraved with “Grande Tapisserie” large grid decoration, with sub-dials of the same tone, as well as 18K white gold three-dimensional hour markers and Royal Oak hands. 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are respectively equipped with date, moon phase, week and month and leap year displays, with a balanced layout and clear and easy to read. A central hand with a triangular arrow combines with numerals on the outer edge to indicate the current week number. If it is continuously wound, the perpetual calendar function does not require manual correction until 2100.

Through the see-through case back, you can appreciate the built-in Caliber 5134 movement. The movement is assembled from 374 parts, only 4.3mm thick, contains 38 jewels, has a vibration frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz), is equipped with a 22K gold skeleton rotor, and can provide a 40-hour power reserve. At the same time, the Caliber 5134 movement is also decorated with exquisite Geneva patterns and fish scale patterns.

The watch comes with an 18K white gold bracelet with an AP folding clasp. Additionally, it comes with a black rubber strap and a purple rubber strap.

The Royal Oak, the first of its kind in luxury sports watches, turns 50 this year, and for that reason alone, it deserves a spot on this list. It remains one of the most powerful designs in watchmaking history, penned by the late Gerald Genta in 1972. We all wonder what happens when AP announces that the 15202 will be discontinued. Well, it turns out that the new Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 16202ST is pretty faithful to its origins. The biggest change is the introduction of a new movement (with a special rotor only on its anniversary). The exterior changes are very subtle, with fine exterior touches here and there. But most importantly, it’s still what a Royal Oak should be.

39 mm stainless steel case, octagonal bezel – “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” petite checkered dial – white gold applied indexes and hands – AP Caliber 7121, self-winding – special 50 year rotor only available in 2022 – integrated stainless steel Bracelet with folding clasp – reference 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01

Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Permanent

As I mentioned in my previous article, Ulysse Nardin is one of my favorite brands. I’ve had several models in the past and I carry my Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Black Ocean with me on almost every occasion.

What we have here today is the Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Pepetual.

The 43mm diameter case is made of 18K solid gold. A Ulysse Nardin classic, the serial number plaque is attached to the right side of the case. The experimental design details that dominate the style of timepieces in general are also evident in the details of the case.

The lugs are designed to fit custom to the end of the strap. The slightly curved case form and high lug design perfectly balance the weight of the watch and provide great wearing comfort.

It appears that Ulysse Nardin has put a lot of effort into incorporating the GMT and perpetual calendar functions into a sporty case with a distinctive look. The most notable result of this work is the robust shell construction, which is rated WR100M, unlike common dress complications.

The fixed 24-hour bezel is engraved with gold-filled numerals at 12 o’clock and features a moon-shaped graphic. The bezel and pushers are made of blue ceramic.

The double-sided sapphire crystal provides an unobstructed view of the exquisite movement.

The independent dual time zone hands can be advanced or reversed by pressing a blue ceramic pusher located on the case. Each of these buttons has a plus or minus sign for easy access to independent dual time zone hands. The minus button is located directly below the winding crown at 4 o’clock, and the plus button is located directly under the serial number plate at 8 o’clock.

The dial form is a bit complicated. The lower part of the dial is designed with a T-shaped window, which mainly accommodates the GMT and perpetual calendar functions. While very unique, the design is certainly not for everyone. Interestingly, the Côtes de Genève decoration we are familiar with from the movement is used on the dial. The silver dial is perfectly matched with the blue tone, which is radiant with the help of Côtes de Genève. Large date-style date window at 1 o’clock with a blue-backed date disc. Large skeleton hands filled with SuperLuminova display are one of the unique design details.

The beating heart in the Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual is the patented perpetual calendar automatic movement UN-032, with quick settings for all perpetual calendar functions, local time/dual time mechanism, 34 jewels, and 45 hours of operation when fully wound Power reserve. The beautifully decorated movement is fully visible through the case back. The waterproof rating of the watch is 100M.

El Toro comes on an elegant blue alligator leather strap with an 18K solid gold deployant clasp. The leather strap feels a little stiff, but I’m sure it will break after a while of use.

I believe a rubber strap would suit the sporty look of this watch better than alligator leather.

When we saw the El Toro, we had a lot of positive details about the watch, like a super sporty perpetual calendar and 100M water resistance that lets you swim with it, and more. The brand itself is almost enough to buy a watch. However, I have one reason it’s not for everyone: design.

Such an experimental and boldly designed fashion watch cannot be suitable for the majority of watch lovers.

If you’re after a complicated watch that can be worn comfortably on a daily basis, and you’re good at bold designs and plenty of wrist presence, then the El Toro is for you. We recommend trying the rubber band version too when you stop for a coffee at the beautiful Quadran boutique.