Chopard LUC Time Traveller One Black In Ceramized Titanium

This is a bit of a headache. Over the years, I’ve come to love Chopard more and more, from its relatively more affordable “car lovers’ watch” Mille Miglia collection to its competitive high-end LUC line of watches, all the way to its haute horlogerie creations that give a dull Historical names run for their money in performance. Frankly, I really like this Chopard LUC Time Traveler One Black Ceramic Titanium – if not for the price, it seems a little ambitious even compared to the competition inside.

The world timer is great. This look, in which the city scale and the two-tone 24-hour scale surround the stunningly small central dial, is often associated with Patek Philippe, although it is not a Patek Philippe design, but Louis Cottier with his calibre 1931. This elegant solution The scheme attracted Patek Philippe, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and countless others over the next few decades to use the feature to cater to a rapidly globalizing world. Even the design of the two crowns is believed to have been his around 1950.

Still, it retains every bit of its appeal, like a two- or three-sub-dial chronograph, despite the use of the world’s timepiece dial by countless small and large watchmakers over the decades. As such, Chopard LUC Time Traveler One Black is a crisp, monochromatic rendition of this formula, made with Chopard’s own small details that have become beautifully rounded over time, in Chopard and Supreme The unique characteristics of Chopard LUC watches are found on the level.

Highlights of Chopard LUC Time Traveler 1 Black
Let’s see how the Chopard LUC has done right with impressive consistency of late, including in this “Time Voyager One”. First off, the “Chrysler Building” hands – I’m not sure if anyone shares the name, but these fantastic hands always remind me of the Chrysler Building, for some reason. A beautiful design is useless without high-quality execution, especially on luxury watches. The hands are polished on both sides and have a protruding ridge along the center, which requires two large angled flats and a triangular cross-section. This means you almost always have at least one side of each hand reflecting and thus protruding on the dial, ensuring excellent legibility – another thing Chopard has an impressive hit between its designs is correct.

Second, a custom font style is used for every script on the dial, right down to the tiny SWISS MADE text flanking the 6 o’clock hour markers. The 24-hour clock, city names and company logos are all consistent, and you don’t have to struggle to find the same expensive watch, but you can’t apply a novel font so evenly. Typography is grossly underrated in watch design in general, but that’s another discussion. This approach reminds me of the Patek Philippe 5212A-001 (hands on here), although I find it a little tried and lovely. In my opinion, Chopard is more mature in a pleasing way, like the handwriting of a 50-something architect versus the handwriting of a skilled 8-year-old.

Third, the overall quality of execution and attention to detail (a caveat to be discussed shortly), right down to the pin buckle and its beveled edges and laser-etched markings, in titanium, to match the case. Again, if a detailed and neat clasp was given at this price point, we wouldn’t stress it – but no price range guarantees that nuance will match the case and dial (I’m looking at you and you Shiny belt buckle, Panerai). The sapphire crystal front is in the top 1% of crystals I’ve seen or photographed on any watch. Obviously, I found myself pressing my finger on it to see if it was still there – happened dozens of times, and I really didn’t want to believe that there was still a crystal in front of that dial. well done.

Fourth, abrasion resistance is good, thanks to the 12.09mm overall case thickness and the lightness of the titanium case and pin buckle (no thick folding clasp digging deep into the wrist). The strap could be a little more flexible and the edges less sharp. Fifth, the overall function and feel of the movement inside the Chopard LUC 01.05-L is great. As I spin the city disc, every new setting delivers a pleasant click, so nice and easy that I often find myself turning the disc 360° just to feel that luxurious touch (yes, that) . The power reserve is 60 hours, complemented by quiet running full-size rotors, matching the modern stable 4 Hz operating frequency. The decor is nice, although I’m far from a fan of the “smoky” dark grey exhibition caseback. Maybe the vignette effect would be fun, but this full-screen tease where I can barely see anything even in direct sunlight is more frustrating than stunning. Oh, and if you want to brag, the Chopard LUC Time Traveler One Black watch is a 291-part movement and 39 jewels – a fairly high component count that implies a rather complicated movement to drive the hours, minutes, seconds, Date and 24 hour display.

Cons of Now Chopard LUC Time Traveler 1 Black
I’ve already mentioned that the straps, especially those close to the case, could use a little extra flexibility, and it could have a softer edge for better wearing comfort. The titanium case, which I laud for its light weight and comfort, can, and, I think, should be more refined at this price point. Its blocky lugs and versatile finish make the aesthetics too basic for my tastes. Suffice to say, it draws attention to the beautifully crafted dials and hands—really outstanding—but I can’t help but wish there were a little more of those lugs.

The surface is “ceramicized” and is said to be very durable – in fact, the Chopard LUC Time Traveler One Black showed no wear after two weeks of continuous wear, which is more than enough for a regular titanium watch, Tinkerbell, in my experience. In a way – and I’ll stop bashing this one – the buckles allow the case to have wide sloping sides on either side. A similar thing might happen with lugs, while still allowing “ceramicization” to be applied. That said, I’m sure some people will find the blocky case a plus – a masculine design so to speak, which again brings attention to the dial and, in fact, goes well with the monochromatic theme.

I think the general feeling associated with worldtimer watches is that you get “a lot of watches” because of the visual and mechanical complexity. However, I feel that Chopard offers strong in-house competition for the LUC Time Traveller One Black in the form of the Alpine Eagle, which is “more noteworthy” in terms of value. It offers the most spectacular case and bracelet material in its class (well above that) in an incredible white Lucent Steel A223. The case, bezel, and bracelet are all at a level that surpasses the Time Traveler One, and it undeniably sacrifices a low-key, stealthy monochromatic look in favor of the best of habits (case and bracelet) again in this segment. The eagle eye dial is also very neat, plus you get a similar caseback aesthetic (no Côtes de Genève) since the Time Traveler uses the same 0.01 caliber for its base. No matter how I look at it, the Alpine Eagle looks like a watch and is 50% more expensive than the Time Traveler One Black. Let me know below if you agree.

Essentially, the Chopard LUC Time Traveller One Black is a great-looking watch and a great everyday watch for someone—one that you buy and wear for years. The movement, almost two decades old, with a “ceramicized” titanium case, an all-encompassing sense of sturdy quality, and a timeless monochromatic design ensure that the Time Voyager 1 will age gracefully. Not what can be said about most luxury watches today.

Wonderful Massimo Bonfigli and Jean-Christophe Chabatier speak at the Watch Association New York

The Ulysse Nardin duo will discuss the history of the nautical observatory and the brand’s expertise in manufacturing them.

Ulysse Nardin celebrates its 175th anniversary this year and will deliver a speech at the New York Institute of Watches and Clocks as part of the ongoing celebration. At the New York Society of Watches and Clocks meeting in November 2021, Massimo Bonfiglioli, the head of the Athens watch heritage, will discuss the history of the nautical observatory and the brand’s manufacturing expertise. These extremely precise timers ensure safe navigation on the high seas, even in severe weather that would hinder other navigation methods. Bonfigli will work with Jean-Christophe Sabatier, Product Director of Ulysse Nardin, to explain how the recently launched Chronometry since 1846 capsule series takes care of the brand’s tradition and value.

About Massimo Bonfiglioli

Massimo Bonfigli was born in Neuchâtel, Switzerland on December 3, 1960. He is the head of the brand heritage department of Ulysse Nardin.

He was hired by Rolf Schnyder as a regional sales manager in 2000. Throughout his career, Massimo has contributed to sales development in various markets including Switzerland, France, Spain, Portugal, Benelux, Italy, South America, Greece, Turkey and North Africa. Contributions. Since 2005, Massimo Bonfigli has also been responsible for training, visits to manufacturers, and the Athens watch heritage space in Le Locle, Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Today, his extensive experience in Ulysse Nardin makes him very familiar with the brand, and is an important asset for training and sales.

For more than 30 years, Massimo Bonfigli has gained in-depth knowledge of the Swiss watch industry, the history of the Athens watch brand, and current and historical collections at Ulysse Nardin for 21 years.

Massimo Bonfigli has worked with Rolf Schnyder and Ludwig Oechslin and attended when it was acquired by the French luxury goods group Kering in 2014. He is fluent in French, English, Italian and Spanish.

Massimo Bonfigli is part of his home region and he is passionate about cross-country skiing in the mountains around Neuchâtel in winter and cycling in summer. He has also participated in more than 15 European marathons, including Rome, Berlin and Prague.wrist watches

About Jean-Christophe Sabatier

Jean-Christophe Sabatier was born in Dijon in 1970. He is the head of the Ulysse Nardin product division in Le Locle and is responsible for the brand’s product line. From the design of the new series to market distribution, Jean-Christophe and his team are responsible for formulating the design of new products, determining their positioning, and helping to maintain creativity and innovation-the values ​​cherished by the brand. He is also responsible for all development. Jean-Christophe is a project management expert with an in-depth understanding of the market; he is responsible for a team of 10 people, including artists, designers, and project managers.

Jean-Christophe graduated from the Clermont Business School in France and started his career in the automotive industry at Peugeot at the age of 23. After working for Peugeot in Egypt for 2 years, Jean-Christophe continued his adventures in Peugeot in Paris for nearly 5 years, responsible for the paint and materials of the entire series. Jean-Christophe entered the watchmaking industry in 2002 after working as an international product manager for Salomon in the Alpine division of Annecy for 3 years as the marketing and communications director of Baume et Mercier. In 2011, he joined the Kering Group as the head of Boucheron’s watch department. Finally, in March 2016, Jean-Christophe joined Ulysse Nardin as product director.

Jean-Christophe is passionate about geopolitics and travel. He goes skiing, deep sea diving and karate. He lives in Neuchatel near the shore of the lake. Jean-Christophe is married and has three children. fashion watches

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Flawless Imperial Dragon

The ability to combine high-end watchmaking craftsmanship with other types of craftsmanship, whether it is inlay, engraving, hand-painting, music box making or enamel art, is a major feature of the famous American brand copy Jacob & Co.. Continuing this tradition, the company has added an incredible novelty to its watch collection-the Astronomia Flawless Imperial Dragon watch.

In this high-end watch, the unusual Astronomia mechanism is intertwined with a flexible dragon pattern made by hand lacquering and hand engraving in 18 carat rose gold. The miniature sculpture of the dragon consists of four parts (head, body, tail, and water around the dragon), which must be connected in an invisible seam. Considering that the image of the mythological creature is made of gold and therefore heavy, and the screws connecting the various parts of the dragon are very small, this task is indeed daunting. Not to mention that the watchmaker needs to be very careful not to damage the characters during the assembly process and bring them safely to the final stage, where the designer hand-completes the smallest details: scales, teeth, tongue and eyes.

Since the launch of the Astronomia series in 2014, a mandatory attribute of the models of the product line includes a huge sapphire glass case. Thanks to the transparency of the case, all the glory of the dual-axis tourbillon mechanism can be seen from different sides. The complex concept of the monolithic case design gives rise to the illusion that the complicated functions under the sapphire dome are floating in the air.

Replacing the individual metal parts used in previous models of this series with sapphire glass elements helps to achieve this effect. In particular, we are talking about case rings and lugs. The production of the “mythical” case (50 x 25.45 mm) took more than 1,000 hours in total!

This proud representative of the Jacobs company’s top timepiece is equipped with a manual winding movement and a 60-hour power reserve device. In addition to the hours and minutes, it also supports the operation of a two-axis tourbillon. The rotation speed of the latter is 60 seconds on one axis and 2.5 minutes on the second axis. In this model, the famous manufacturer retains the concept of the four-axis turntable module, fixing all functions and pure decorative elements at its end. In addition to the sub-dial and tourbillon frame, a 1-carat Jacob Cut® diamond and a lacquered magnesium alloy ball that symbolize the earth can also be seen under the dragon’s body. Both elements rotate around their axis at a speed of two revolutions per minute.

The unique timing device Astronomia was released in a single version, perfectly embodying the motto of Jacobs-“Inspired by the Impossible”.

Jacob & Co. luxury is one of the few brands that often amaze customers with their incredibly beautiful and reliable watches.