Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie – Haute Horlogerie and the best innovations

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The Grande and Petite Sonnerie have a special place in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Only a handful of watchmakers are able to manufacture (and present in their catalogs) such works of art, often regarded as the pinnacle of complex watchmaking. Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey had been thinking about this major move for years, beginning an 11-year research and development effort that culminated in their own interpretation of the complication, which A “self-contained” creation is undoubtedly one of the highlights of SIHH 2017.

The Grande Sonnerie is one of the most complex watch mechanisms (for more on chiming watches, read our Technical Viewpoint). Both the grande sonnerie and the petite sonnerie strike the time and quarters at the same time, but only the grande sonnerie repeats the time every quarter of an hour. Not surprisingly, Greubel Forsey’s interpretation of this complication – the dynamic duo’s first striking watch – is unlike any other in the history of horology: it is a A masterpiece, with a super-complex movement composed of 855 parts (with several noteworthy innovations), first-class craftsmanship, excellent acoustics and unparalleled Greubel Forsey style.

The GreubelFors Grande Sonnerie is equipped with mode selectors GS (Grand Sonnerie), PS (Small Sonnerie) and SL (Silent), all operated by a pusher at 4 o’clock. It is also a minute repeater, able to tell the time by pressing a button in the crown. In such mechanisms, the management of functionality and power is crucial so that all parts can interact simultaneously and tell the time perfectly, while managing energy consumption. The movement is powered by two energy sources: the first energy source is used for the chronograph part of the movement, with two coaxial series quick-rotating barrels (one of which has a sliding spring – 72 hours power reserve).

Although the Review fashion watch is water resistant to 30m, the sound quality of the chime is excellent, loud and pure. The case is made of titanium, which has good resonance properties. The hammer strikes the steel gong of the cathedral. The silent governor eliminates any unsightly background noise. The chimes are optimized without pauses, eliminating the usually perceptible tiny silence between the chimes of the hours and minutes.

Another notable and useful feat is the addition of 11 safety features. For example, when the timekeeping is in progress, the time setting is disconnected, and the timekeeping cannot be sounded during the time setting. In fact, striking watches need to be handled with care, as improper handling can damage the movement… and repairing such a mechanism is a long and complicated process (the assembly of the movement takes months)!

To enhance the timekeeping performance of the watch, Greubel Forsey added a 24-second tilting tourbillon to its impressive Grande Sonnerie. Of course, it’s up to the standard you’d expect from a brand: 86 perfectly handcrafted parts, weighing just 0.37 grams in total, light alloy cage struts, titanium cage bridges, gold counterweights, variable inertia pendulum with gold screws Wheel, hairspring with Philips terminal curve and Geneva-style studs…running at 21,600 vibrations/hour, inclined at 25° angle, and making one revolution every 24 seconds.

In traditional luxury Greubel Forsey style, the multi-layered black dial shows the hours and minutes by the brand’s skeletonized gold hands with arrow-shaped luminous tips. All applied indicators/markers are gold. Around the dial, small seconds at 6.30, chronograph power reserve at 5, chiming power reserve at 2 and chime mode selector at 3. The hollow position allows easy observation of the hammer and gong.

Despite its mechanical complexity, the watch is enduring because Greubel Forsey housed all 855 parts of the movement in its signature asymmetrical case measuring 43.5 mm in diameter and 16.13 mm high (relatively compact) middle. Crafted in titanium, it features a hand-finished case and a side window that reveals the tourbillon and steel cathedral gongs.

As always, the movement finishing is top notch. Bridge in nickel silver, brushed with embossed inscriptions, micro-rotor in black finish (also with embossed inscriptions), black-polished hammers, olive dome jewel set in gold-tone rhinestones.

The Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie is fitted with a black hand-stitched alligator strap secured by a titanium folding clasp. wholesale watches replica

Technical specifications of the Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie

Case: 43.5mm x 16.13mm – Titanium – Front and back sapphire crystal – Sapphire side windows – 30m water resistance
Movement: 36.40 mm x 11.13 mm – Manual winding – 72 hours power reserve – 21,600 vibrations/hour – 85 jewels – Hours, minutes, small seconds, small sonnerie, minute repeater, chime mode selection, tilting tourbillon 24 Seconds, movement power reserve indicator, chiming power reserve indicator.
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather with titanium folding clasp

The movement is all blue? Panerai Lumino series red gold tourbillon is too eye-catching

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Born in 1860, Panerai is known for its superb watchmaking craftsmanship and fearless display of mechanical beauty. It first produced precision instruments and watches for the Italian Royal Navy, and now it has become a very representative world-renowned watch. Table brand. Panerai watches are dominated by sports and leisure styles, ranging from basic big three needles to complex tourbillon watches. What we appreciate today is the Luminor Tourbillon GMT Goldtech™ Luminor series red gold launched by the brand last year. The Tourbillon Two Time Watch, it combines Italian style and refined aesthetics, showing the eye-catching timepiece charm. (Watch model: PAM01060)

Compared with the Luminor Tourbillon GMT Luminor Series Tourbillon Two Time Watches in the direct metal laser sintered titanium or ceramic case style launched in previous years, this watch has a more unique temperament. It is Panerai. The first Luminor Tourbillon watch with a Goldtech™ red gold case is very significant.

The special feature of Goldtech™ red gold material is that it contains 24% copper, which is higher than that of ordinary red gold, which makes the case appear more ruddy, and the addition of a certain proportion of platinum is also conducive to improving the alloy’s strength. Antioxidant effect.

A closer look reveals that cheap Panerai designers took a different approach to remove the bezel. Such a design is relatively rare on watches, but the effect is very good. The function of this watch is more complicated, and it is easy to make people feel cluttered if the design is not good. Removing the bezel can effectively enlarge the dial space on the basis of the same size, making it visually clearer and more consistent.

The design of the Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Goldtech™ Luminor Series Red Gold Tourbillon Two Time Watch subverts traditional cognition. Color, can not help but make people shine. In addition, the digital hour markers, small seconds, 24-hour display and power reserve display are all suspended on the outer edge of the dial, giving the watch a more personal appearance and highlighting Panerai’s unique aesthetic concept.

Panerai’s iconic crown bridge protection device can also be seen on this watch. It is composed of a semi-circular bridge protection bridge and a mobile protection lever. When the protection lever is in the closed position, the crown can form a good shape. It is sealed to prevent water from entering the movement and guarantees the waterproof performance of the watch.

Like its predecessors, Panerai has equipped this watch with the P.2005/T movement made of titanium, the reverse of which is also plated in blue, in line with the overall style of the watch. The movement weighs only 23 grams, and the three connected barrels provide a power reserve of up to 6 days. It is worth mentioning that the tourbillon cage of this watch is perpendicular to the horizontal axis of the balance wheel and runs one revolution every 30 seconds, which is intended to better compensate for the gravitational force by increasing the number of rotations. The influence of the operation of the regulator reflects Panerai’s excellent watchmaking technology from the side.

The Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Goldtech™ Luminor Series Red Gold Tourbillon Two Time Watch uses a precious metal case with a mechanical blue hollow dial, which not only intuitively shows the brand’s superb watchmaking skills, but also gives people For aesthetic enjoyment, interested friends can learn more about it.

The RM 47 Tourbillon watch, armouring the watch

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Art and spirituality merge into one. As an aesthetic masterpiece that pays tribute to Japanese culture, the RM 47 Tourbillon watch is amazingly presented after nearly four years of careful consideration and careful design. This ingenious, artistic watch is equipped with a movement that is compact and compact and designed to make room for samurai armor.

• Originating from the spirit and values ​​of Bushido
• 16 hours of craftsmanship and 9 hours of careful drawing to achieve 3N gold samurai armor carving

The birth of this watch was inspired by a heartfelt conversation between Mr. Richard Mille and his close friend, Fernando Alonso. Alonso is a two-time Formula 1 world champion and a fan of traditional Japanese art and samurai spirit.

This new replica watch breaks through the boundaries of creativity and occupies a place in Richard Mille’s watch series known for its “decorative” and “ornamental value”. The samurai armor was hand-carved by sculptor Pierre-Alain Lozeron and painted by his wife Valérie Lozeron. The samurai armor carving shows the various styles of Japanese culture passed down from generation to generation, and the moral code conveyed by the samurai spirit is still prevalent in Japanese society today. Armor in 3N gold comes to life, reminiscent of the gold leaf elements used to decorate the most sacred temples and some traditional crafts in ancient Japan.

Many of the details in the watch refer to the family crest of the Asano family, a symbol of the Japanese Bushido spirit. At the beginning of the 18th century, Asano Naganori, who was also the lord of the “Daimyo” of the family domain, was also a lord followed by the forty-seven ronin. After avenging the death of the lord, these ronin resolutely followed the lord and died. In Japan, each samurai family has its own family crest. The tourbillon decorated with the Asano family crest is located at the 6 o’clock position of the watch. This family crest composed of two intersecting eagle feathers symbolizes the strength of the battle and the authority of the lord, and is also finely engraved on the winglet of the samurai helmet. The crown is made of titanium, Carbon TPT® and polished 3N gold, and features a Japanese maple leaf pattern. The maple leaf symbolizes the change of seasons, beauty, grace and the shortness of life. At the bottom, two knives are engraved in their sheaths, with the blades pointing upwards for quick extraction in the face of danger. 2022 replica watches

As a dual artistic fusion of sculpture and carving, the production of samurai armor requires patience, meticulousness, dexterity and enthusiasm. “There are so many similarities between the knife and the chisel, between the sharp edge and the precise positioning of the incision of the engraver’s skill, one cannot help but think of the resonance of Bushido and the ingenuity of the craftsman,” says Pierre-Alain Lozeron. After more than 16 hours of precision engraving and 9 hours of painting – it took more than a full day to create the 11 parts of the “Samurai”, which are seamlessly embedded around the RM 47 Tourbillon movement.

The samurai armor is like a guardian, providing loyal protection to the RM47 hand-wound calibre with hours and minutes display. The base plate and the hollow bridge are made of black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium alloy, an alloy commonly used in the aerospace industry, with high biocompatibility, corrosion resistance, hardness and surface flatness. This ensures that the movement runs smoothly.

The movement, case and decoration of the RM 47 watch reflect the harmonious fusion of elements. The tonneau case consists of three parts, including a 3N gold middle case, a black TZP ceramic bezel and a case back. With its outstanding aesthetic expression, the RM 47 Tourbillon evokes the spirit and connotation of Bushido, symbolizing a persistent pursuit of excellence and a respect for tradition.

New: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G

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Patek Philippe copy has launched the new Ref in its iconic Calatrava collection. Made of 5226G white gold, new textured dial and case sides with guilloché de Paris studs.

A new Calatrava is usually a warm welcome to the collection. Last year, Patek Philippe launched the Ref. 6119 with surprising success, as it brought the Clou de Paris bezel back to the collection. This year, the new Calatrava comes in white gold, but features a self-winding Calibre 26-330 SC with sweep seconds, date and hack seconds.

The main difference from the Calibre 30-255PS used in Ref. 6119 is that this movement has a date mechanism and the seconds hand is a centrally mounted sweep hand instead of an auxiliary seconds hand in the sub-dial at 6 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Calibre 26-330 SC.
But the sport is not entirely new. The dial is now a textured dial, made on a printing press, with a gradient from charcoal grey to black around the edges. The hands are less classic, but probably a more modern syringe shape with a luminous coating, while the hands of the Ref.6119 are very classic Dauphine shapes without luminous.

Patek Philippe, textured dial of PP-5226G.
And, of course, the studded Paris motif engraved on the side of the case. This new design treats the lugs as extensions and integrates with the case backsplash. The case is a “just right” 40mm, slightly higher than the 39mm of the Ref.6119.

Patek Philippe, PP-5226G, showing the Paris studs on the side of the case.
These two features also apply to the new Ref. 5326G calendar time, we regard these two watches as siblings. Of course, the 5326 is very useful in combining the annual calendar with Patek Philippe’s excellent two-time-zone implementation, while the 5226 is time-only, with a date. As we said in our review of the 5320, the look is determined to be more modern (albeit inspired by vintage cameras) and likely aimed at a younger demographic than traditional Patek Philippe customers. Although, in fact, the design may be timeless and appreciated by children of all ages.

Calatrava new in contemporary retro style with guilloche de Paris decoration

Patek Philippe is unique not only in its creative and technical mastery of movements, but also in its creativity in cases and dials. The latest addition to the Calatrava collection, the new white gold Reference 5226G-001, perfectly exemplifies the pursuit of excellence in all areas of watchmaking.

Based on the round, streamlined case shape that has made Calatrava models famous since 1932, Patek Philippe has reworked its flanks with guilloche de Paris (nail pattern) on both sides – a The pattern symbolizes the year 2021 in the 2021 Calatrava Clous de Paris Reference 6119. To allow this guilloche pattern to run all the way around the strap, the designers also created a special case structure in which the lugs form an integral part of the case back.

The charcoal grey vintage-style dial features black gradient edges. Its slightly grainy texture is reminiscent of vintage camera bags. The dial features white gold applied numerals with a beige luminous coating, as well as a low-profile “railway” scale for the seconds hand. Hours and minutes are indicated by syringe-shaped white gold hands with beige luminous coating. The date display is displayed through an aperture at 3 o’clock, printed in beige on a black background.

This new model is powered by the self-winding 26-330 SC calibre with stop-seconds function.

The new Reference 5226G-001 comes with two interchangeable straps – one in beige calfskin with a nubuck finish and the other in black calfskin with an embossed fabric pattern and beige stitching – both made of White gold claw clasp secures.

The same case, dial and strap design is also present on the new Reference 5326G-001 with annual calendar and travel time functions.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G Specifications
Calatrava with date and seconds.

dial

Charcoal grey texture, black gradient edges, gold 3D numerals, beige luminous coating
White gold barrel-shaped hands with luminous coating
case

platinum
Strap guilloche studs
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 8.53mm
Water resistant up to 30 m
Sapphire crystal case back
shoulder strap

Calfskin, Nubuck, Hand-stitched, Beige (Original)
Calfskin, Embossed Fabric Pattern, Hand-stitched, Black (Additional Strap)
claw buckle
move

Caliber 26-330 SC
automatic winding
date in aperture
sweep second
Diameter: 27mm
Height: 3.3mm
Number of parts: 212
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 35 hours – maximum. 45 hours