Since its official launch in 2019, this year Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 series has added five new self-winding three-hand watches and five new self-winding chronographs.
The new model is characterized by the lacquered dial with blue, burgundy, purple and light gray and dark gray sunburst patterns, all with 41 mm white gold, rose gold or two-tone white gold and rose gold cases.
These new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 models are equipped with a new generation of self-winding and self-winding chronograph movements released by the manufacturer in 2019. The self-winding model is equipped with a 4302 movement, an automatic movement with seconds and instant date indication, and a 22-carat oscillating weight visible through the sapphire back cover.
The self-winding chronograph model is powered by the 4401 movement, which is an integrated chronograph with a column wheel and flyback function. The chronograph can be restarted without first stopping and resetting.
Because of the complicated and highly manual work required to make them, the dials in this series are all made by a single supplier. This was partly due to the choice to display the lacquered dial, which then had to accommodate a rather unusual logo.
The 12.5 mm long copy Audemars Piguet logo is made using an electroplating growth process, which is a chemical process used to achieve micro-measurement accuracy. It is applied by superimposing thin layers of 24 carats of gold on top of each other to produce a 3D effect. Although other watchmakers have also adopted this process, Audemars Piguet was the first company to use 24-carat gold in this process. This complex logo implementation took about two years to develop, partly because the “A” and “U” of the Audemars Piguet logo are very thin. More importantly, these letters are connected to each other by links about the size of a hair.
Unexpected Dimension: Crystal
As mentioned earlier, Audemars Piguet’s CODE 11.59 bezel is very thin. The reason behind this geometric shape is that the bezel needs to integrate an unusual sapphire crystal, which is also designed for this series. The inner surface of the anti-glare sapphire crystal is dome-shaped, while the outer surface is vertically curved from 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock.
This arched profile is designed to provide the best readability for the dial. Regardless of clarity, this also means that the depth, viewing angle and even light of the timepiece can play a role, because it is tilted and studied from a contrasting angle and surface. Even if the watch is not your style, it is well worth seeing for yourself-the execution of the crystal is a truly impressive design feat, very clear, even at a glance.
Specially built: internal movement
The movement of the self-winding watch and the self-winding chronograph was specially developed by the Audemars Piguet series for CODE 11.59. Like the case and dial, the development of the movement is no small feat—especially for the long-awaited self-winding chronograph model of the brand’s fans.
The chronograph model is powered by the internal calibre 4401, which is an integrated chronograph with a column wheel and flyback function. The chronograph can be restarted without first stopping and resetting. The movement has a diameter of 32 mm, and of course it also provides an hour, small seconds and date window. The movement is also equipped with a patented reset mechanism to ensure that each counter pointer is reset to zero.
In addition, it is also equipped with a vertical clutch system to prevent the hands from jumping when the chronograph is stopped or started. Audemars Piguet is keen to showcase as many 367 components and functions as possible. Parts that are usually hidden from sight, such as the so-called “dance” of the chronograph hammer when the column wheel and the chronograph are reset, can be seen through the back cover, and even the 22-carat gold pendulum is open-working.
At the same time, the self-winding movement 4302 (also with a large diameter of 32 mm) belongs to the same movement series as its chronograph cousin, but it is naturally much simpler. It provides hour, minute, central seconds and immediate date indication. The movement is equipped with a decorative 22-carat gold oscillating weight, which is clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
Finally, let us not forget the basics-both movements beat at a frequency of 4 Hz and have a power reserve of 70 hours. In addition, due to the sapphire crystal back cover, wearers of both models can see several exquisite decoration techniques completed by hand. This includes “traits tirés”, “Côtes de Genève”, as well as round grain patterns, round satin patterns and diamond polishing angles.
The watch itself uses a hand-stitched leather strap that matches the color of the dial. It will be interesting to see the dial with a simple black strap, because brighter models such as burgundy watches will have a completely different appearance. It will be more interesting to see how these watches-at least the platinum version-match bracelets, especially the chronograph, with a digital tachymeter scale, which looks more like a sports online watch.
The strap also controls the color of the dial to a certain extent—for example, if there is no gray leather strap, the gray dial might be considered white. In any case, the current hand-stitched “big square” alligator leather strap with an 18-carat white/pink gold pin buckle is well integrated into the design, finally allowing the shape of the case and the eye-catching dial to take center stage.
In the final analysis, 2020 does not bring too many major changes to Audemars Piguet watch CODE 11.59. We can simply conclude that this is due to the already impressive case design, the high attention to detail, and the colorful sunburst dial. However, while these elements are a key part of any watch review, it is also worth analyzing what the latest series actually tells us about the brand, strategy and followers.
Back to the first point of this article: Audemars Piguet is famous for its Royal Oak series. So why did Audemars Piguet invest in CODE 11.59 watches again, despite any really exciting new qualities? Of course, it obviously sold well in the first year. But at a deeper level, my answer is that, fundamentally, these watches not only encourage watch companies, but also encourage their followers to step out of their comfort zone.
One thing to define us is both a blessing and a curse, but unfortunately how easy it is to forget what the brand must provide, because we often focus on the most iconic designs of the brand, from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso to Breitling’s Navitimer. No, Audemars Piguet’s CODE 11.59 is almost unrecognizable on your wrist. Yes, very few people will stop to replenish your watch in public—at least for now. But of course this is not all the meaning a watch should have.
Some people may argue that Audemars Piguet’s latest Code 11.59 watch is an obscure strategy designed to drive consumers in new directions, reach new customers, and remind consumers of the manufacturer’s capabilities. Others may argue that Audemars Piguet’s CODE 11.59 does not have the same amazing elements as Royal Oak’s iconic and modern design. But let us remember that at the beginning of its conception, the Royal Oak was also ignored and ridiculed. Personally, I think the case and sapphire crystal are particularly capable of making the watch a valuable part of the brand’s history.
After exploring the depth and details of the thought behind his creation, it is obvious that Audemars Piguet’s CODE 11.59 can encourage us as individuals to open our eyes and thoughts and see that there are a large number of watches waiting to be discovered-if we learn to transcend the cult classics Enough. perfect cheap watches