Looking back at the manufacture of the Ulysse Nardin Nautical Observatory

Finding the right discount watch is a task. When a watch fits into one’s lifestyle, like a glove on one hand, not through some artificial marketing association, but for real-world applications, then there is a symbiotic relationship. For example, which watch is right for a boat owner?

Whether he’s the captain of a fly tower fishing boat, an open-air archer loaded with eager skiers, a sports cruiser with a galley and overnight accommodation, a true luxury recreational yacht, or even one bound for the port of Monaco in the thin air When sailing mega-yachts are in time for formula racing, the right watch is crucial. A dive watch can, but if form follows function, what is a watch for captains other than a diver? As summer beckons to captains of rivers, lakes and seas, Ulysse Nardin, synonymous with the pilot’s home, offers a watch that effortlessly moves from swim deck to yacht club, combining the basics of sport and dress elements, while benefiting greatly from Ulysse Nardin’s DIAMonSIL technology and reliable ship helm record. Since we first reported on the 2013 Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture , we’ve been wanting to wear one. In this review, we put the watch to the test and found it to be more than just a boat.

Ulysse Nardin’s interpretation of a nautical chronometer has become a classic and immediately became the brand’s flagship product. You can make a game of finding the company logo on the crown, on the strap badge, on the clasp’s entry and as part of the gorgeous rotor. Finally, the company name also appears on the edge of the dial and caseback, reminiscent of prominent brands from the 1980s. What is not immediately recognizable is the internal movement. When paired with a rubber strap, just like the Southern Ocean, this watch is serious business and can handle rain or shine and relentless waves. From the top deck and teak deck to the yacht club dining room, this watch will work well in all marine situations.

For a watch that dares to call itself a nautical chronometer, the small seconds display is essential; the earliest models used for navigation are represented by a small seconds dial, blue Breguet hands and a large white main dial. The small seconds dial here is moderately sized to help with visibility. The date magnifying glass on the dial is a handy feature. In addition, the UN-118 movement has an automatic date correction/quick setting function that allows the date to be set forward or backward. Pairing a date complication with a nautical chronometer — although the former was missing from earlier models — is a useful update, and the genre’s modernization has produced one of the watch’s main identifying features. At the fake Ulysse Nardin Nautical Observatory, the power reserve indicator is located symmetrically above the small seconds and below 12 o’clock. The watch has an active power reserve of 60 hours and the indicator measures in 12-hour increments. Full power is indicated in white text (“Haut”) in French and red text (“Up”) in English and “Down” in English.

As mentioned earlier, the Classic Nautical Chronometer features blue Breguet hands. Although our models feature modern skeletonized hands, we learned at Baselworld that in the future, Ulysse Nardin’s homemade models will only have Breguet hands. You’ll not only get a top maker movement, but also a version that’s closer to the genre’s heritage. Given that these skeletonized hands are our least favorite part of the watch, we warmly welcome the change. In any case, we would have liked the minute hand to extend further to fit precisely next to the chapter ring, rather than stop. The hour hand can also be longer. Beneath the AR-coated sapphire crystal is a full yet not too busy dial. The blue of our model enhances the aquatic theme and contrasts with the lustre of the hands and the applied numerals. Above the date window, a red “1846,” the year the company was founded, is a familiar design feature. The sloping chapter rings have batons above the numbers and between the rails.

A rubber strap is a must for boat owners, allowing for transitions from deck to surface and back, but 100m water resistance means the watch is limited to just below the swimming platform. Ulysse Nardin has redesigned the rubber strap for its marine chronometer, adding another distinctive element to the watch. Instead of the single-turn rubber ring of the buckle, the strap has a titanium badge that gives the strap two additional pivot points and adds style. While the strap is tailored to the wrist size, there are additional sizing adjustments for the length of the clasp. There are three sets of holes on the top buckle side, two sets of which are used for expansion, and two sets of holes on the bottom buckle for expansion. Two pushers release the lower element and the upper element is pulled out manually. When closing the clasp, it feels a little counterintuitive to secure the top element first and then the bottom. Together with the badge, the three-element clasp gives the rubber strap an unmistakable Ulysse Nardin look. watches on discount

The 43mm fluted case with its concave barrel is a combination of steel and titanium, which means this watch is very light on the wrist and doesn’t get in the way of quick maneuvers on deck. The left side of the case is affixed with a badge of the watch number in an elegant lettering. The steel bezel is the heaviest part of the case and features a coin edge design that helps reduce the watch’s top-heavy weight. The caseback is secured by six screws and has a sapphire crystal for viewing the movement. Two crown guards are built into the titanium case to protect the screw-down crown. If your fingers are wet, the blue non-slip rubber coating on the edge of the crown is a subtle but practical clue that water is the watch’s natural habitat.

The self-winding movement UN-118 has a patented escapement, oscillator and hairspring. Ulysse Nardin’s initial partnership with Sigatec (and eventual purchase) allowed it to complete the DIAMonSIL escapement; DIAMonSIL, the UN’s proprietary diamond-coated silicon material. When it came time to introduce this mechanical achievement, the company opted to introduce the movement in its nautical chronometers. In 2006, the late Rolf Schnyder introduced the limited in-house Calibre 160, a dream that current CEO Patrik Hoffmann fully realized in 2012 by releasing the UN-118 as Ulysse Nardin’s first in-house fully produced movement. . We spoke eloquently about the technical marvels of this COSC-certified movement in our last article, so now we can talk about what the movement looks like. The beautiful rotor signifies the care and attention that went into making the watch. It glided along tracks cut into the bridge, running with the help of ball bearings. Two cutout anchors flank the center blue logo badge. The rotor moves easily, but its weight prevents constant rotation. The circular Côtes de Genève passes through the bridges and the movement is meticulously finished. No self-respecting captain will wear a watch whose attention to detail is at least as good as or better than his own.

Even if you don’t own or regularly charter a boat, yacht or ship – maybe your family simply calls you “the captain”? — This is a great sports/dress combo watch. Maybe you can buy a watch and then a boat? There are many options for the manufacture of cases, dials and straps; you can find the one that’s right for you here. Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture