Auction Phillips Announces Royal Oak 50th Highlights Including Possible ‘Lagerfeld Black PVD’ and Ultra Early A-Series

A promotion dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s iconic timepieces.

As we all know, this year the wholesale Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the most iconic watch in the Le Brassus-based watchmaker’s collection, is approaching its 50th anniversary. As a result, the brand has launched a number of new models to celebrate half a century of Genta-designed sports watches with integrated bracelets, including a new version of the Jumbo Extra-Thin with an unprecedented movement, reference 16202. As you might expect, the auction house in Knowing the cult status of this watch is getting in on the festivities by preparing a dedicated sale. In this framework, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, presents “The Royal Oak 50th”, a themed sale that will bring together some of the most important models produced by AP. This includes some Grande Complications, rare editions and historic watches, such as Karl Lagerfeld’s black PVD ​​coated watch or the first 5402ST A series to hit the auction market.

The 50th Royal Oak Auction will be held in Geneva on 6 May 2022 and will be a curated auction offering 88 treasures including rare, complex, historic and well-preserved Model.

Royal Oak 5402ST “A2”
The Royal Oak Jumbo was born in 1972 under the number 5402ST and was first released in a series of 1,000 pieces under the A-series code. Part of the Royal Oak’s 50th auction will be the first-ever numbered reference 5402 to appear at auction, a watch with serial number A2, meaning the second Royal Oak ever produced by Audemars Piguet. In addition, this watch was one of four Royal Oak models presented to the media and the public at the opening of Baselworld 1972. In addition, this watch comes with a full set of accessories and has never been worn.

KARL LAGERFELD Black PVD ​​Coated 5402ST Series A
One icon is worn by another… There is no other way to describe this famous black watch that has been featured many times in watches and fashion magazines, a watch that somehow started the trend of black and bespoke pieces… And a timepiece that achieved even more after its owner passed away in 2019.

Part of the Royal Oak’s 50th sale will be Karl Lagerfeld’s Black PVD ​​Coated Royal Oak Jumbo Reference 5402ST. The German creative director, fashion designer, artist and photographer is often seen wearing black PVD ​​Royal Oak models in different sizes, which he then presents to friends and collaborators. There are multiple period photos showing the designer wearing such a watch. Purchased in early 1974 while Lagerfeld was living in Italy, this watch was returned to the market in 1995 and remained in the same collection for over 20 years. Note: Phillips explained, “The location of the watch’s delivery and the amount of wear led Phillips’ watch experts to believe that the watch was the property of Lagerfeld.”

Royal Oak 25831ST Stainless Steel Tourbillon
Model 25831ST was introduced in 1997 as part of the celebration of the model’s 25th anniversary and was the first time a Royal Oak was fitted with a tourbillon regulator. It stands out most thanks to its off-centre display with date and power reserve indicators, and a striking octagonal tourbillon ring reminiscent of a watch bezel. Made of stainless steel, this watch is part of a collection of only 25 pieces, with the numerals 1/25, and features a blue Petite Tapisserie dial.

Royal Oak 25865ST GRANDE COMPLICATION
Following the introduction of the tourbillon in 1997, Audemars Piguet quickly introduced most of the complications that could be found in a Royal Oak case. To showcase its virtuosity, the Associated Press took the concept to the extreme with what it called the Grande Complication, a combination of a split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar and minute repeater. This watch is made of stainless steel and has a classic plaid blue dial, which is unique.

Platinum Royal Oak 25636PT Skeleton Perpetual Calendar
The perpetual calendar is one of Audemars Piguet’s most important complications and has therefore long been part of the Royal Oak collection. First introduced in 1984 as reference 5554, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch quickly became a must-have in the collection, with several different versions being introduced. As part of the Royal Oak’s 50th auction, Phillips will be offering reference 25636PT, a platinum case model that also happens to be one of the first models with a skeletonized dial to reveal the QP mechanism below. It comes with a midnight blue sub-dial and no leap year indicator.

Royal Oak 25829TP Platinum and Tantalum Skeleton Perpetual Calendar
The current 25829TP is a slightly more modern version of the watch seen above, as it showcases a classic but rare and desirable combination of materials with a case made of tantalum highlighted with platinum elements. Made in just 16 pieces, this Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in platinum and tantalum features a skeleton movement with leap year indicator and an attractive blue-grey tones.

Royal Oak 14802PT JUBILEE Platinum
To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet launched the so-called Jubilee collection in 1992, marking the first 10 years of the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin (since 5402 in the early 1980s). Of the 1,000 pieces made for the 20-year collection, around 700 are wrapped in steel, 280 in gold and only 20 in platinum. Fewer watches feature so-called blue “Tuscan” dials with specific textures.

Franck Muller launches Vanguard Casablanca

Revive retro bestsellers.

Now in its third decade, Franck Muller cheap is a successful example of independent watchmaking, growing from a small company centered on the founder of the same name to a brand with nine-figure annual revenues.

In addition to a steady stream of innovations and highly complicated watches, the brand is best known for its tonneau-shaped cases – the Cintrée Curvex – which were so successful in the 1990s that tonneau-shaped cases became a staple of contemporary watchmaking.

The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of the barrel shape while taking the palette and styling of the best-selling Cintrée Curvex Casablanca when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was launched in 2014, the Casablanca debuted with a new 43mm size to fill the gap between the 41mm and 45mm cases.

The original Casablanca got its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. To evoke the era of steamboat travel and exotic port cities, Casablanca has oversized Arabic numerals and dials in vintage colors like salmon and sand.

This has been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a decidedly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a powerful and attractive design, arguably more typical of Franck Muller than earlier versions of the Vanguard.

Because the look is very typical of Franck Muller, this will appeal most to those who like the brand, especially if the existing 41mm and 45mm case sizes don’t fit. With Casablanca, Vanguard is available in 43mm for the first time.

Still very much like a tonneau case, the Vanguard case is essentially a modern take on the classic Cintrée Curvex. A prominent recessed bezel filled with black rubber runs along its perimeter, dividing the case lengthwise into the upper half. The break between the upper and lower halves reduces the perceived thickness of the case, while also making its lines more pronounced.

The Vanguard Casablanca is available in two sizes, 41mm and 43mm, the larger size being exclusive to South East Asia.

The Vanguard Casablanca is available in four colours inspired by the originals from the 1990s – blue, black, caramel and salmon. All the colours date back to the history of the brand as they are modelled on dials that Franck Muller has supplied in the past. high quality replica watches

Particularly attractive are the dials with warm tones, namely caramel and salmon. But for those who prefer a bolder look, the boutique version with a blue-black palette is the way to go.

The FM 800-DT is the standout among the chronograph versions, a movement that has the same diameter and power reserve as the ETA 2892, but is slightly thicker. It is produced in-house by Franck Muller, but was originally designed by German watchmaker Martin Braun.

Like most Franck Muller automatic movements, it has a solid platinum rotor, although it is completely hidden under a solid caseback.

Franck Muller Vanguard Casablanca (time-only)
Ref. V 43 SC DT CASA
refer to. V 41 SC DT Casa

Diameter: 41 mm x 49.95 mm, or 42.5 mm x 52.7 mm
Height: 12.2 mm, or 12.6 mm
Material: Steel
Glass: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FM 800-DT
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Chain: self-winding
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Alligator leather covered with rubber

Patek Philippe Ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater with Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

The new rose gold version of this Patek Philippe Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar watch is decorated with 80 baguette diamonds and belongs to the “Rare Handicrafts” series of the Geneva family. This new complication watch is equipped with a transparent sapphire crystal dial, and the wearer can admire the movement from the front of the watch.

The first Patek Philippe complication with a transparent sapphire crystal dial was designated as Ref. 2006 5104; it had a platinum case with rose gold appliques. From 2014 to 2018, closely followed by Ref. 5304 rose gold with white gold intarsia. Now, Patek Philippe has released a new version of rose gold high jewellery. Its bezel, lugs and folding clasp are shining under the fire of 80 flawless top Wesselton baguette diamonds (approximately 6.22 carats).

For this timepiece, Patek Philippe has developed an ingenious system that displays the day, month, and leap year cycle through a transparent sapphire crystal plate, where each display is highlighted in white and contrasts with the black background of the small hole below. To fix the extremely thin sapphire crystal disc on its tiny steel mandrel, a unique and patented assembly process must be developed.

The hollow black lacquered white gold leaf-shaped hands also enhance the visual effect of the movement and its steel parts. Its beveled and polished edges contrast with the rose gold plate decorated with pearl powder. The hand of the flyback date display has a crescent-shaped tip, and numbers are marked on the scale on the outermost edge of the dial. The perpetual calendar has a moon phase display and small seconds at 6 o’clock.

To further enhance the charm of this timepiece, Patek Philippe integrated exquisite platinum inlays and carved leaf patterns on the side of the case and the timekeeping slide.

The sapphire crystal caseback shows the magnificent view of the self-winding calibre R 27 PS QR LU movement, especially the minute repeater with two gongs or the centrifugal governor under the perforated Calatrava cross pattern. The rose gold embedded eccentric micro-rotor is decorated with leaf patterns and rhodium-plated sink. good website

technical details
Movement
Calibre R 27 PS QR LU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 7.23 mm
Parts: 517
Splint: 12 pieces
Gems: 41
Power reserve: at least. 38 hours, up to 48 hours
22K gold eccentric mini
Oscillating weight: Gyromax®
Vibration/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Hairspring: Spiromax®
Logo: Patek Philippe Seal

Features
Minute repeater with classic gong
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand Date
, Month and leap year window manual
Moon phase
Small seconds

dial
Transparent sapphire, date and minute markers, white printed with gold powder dots

Watch case
Rose gold
Sapphire crystal case back
Only moisture and dustproof (not waterproof)
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Gem setting: 58 baguette diamonds: approximately 5.25 carats. (Baffle plate and lugs). 22 baguette diamonds: approximately 0.97 carats. (buckle). A total of 80 baguette diamonds: approximately 6.22 carats.

Strap
Crocodile leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Diamond-studded folding clasp