Stories Beyond Earth – Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Era

For centuries, the tourbillon has been at the forefront of complex craftsmanship in watchmaking. Rotating on a plane, it attracts the attention of countless people, but the tourbillon has never broken through the limit of dimensions. However, the Astronomia celestial body series brought by Jacob & Co. has made a revolutionary breakthrough, making the plane tourbillon three-dimensional, allowing it to rotate and rotate in three directions. This multi-axis tourbillon undoubtedly makes the timepiece more accurate, and it is like a cosmic creature floating on the wrist, which brings infinite shock.

Origin, three-axis tourbillon
Jacob Alebo, founder of Jacob & Co., had no interest in following the example of tourbillons of other brands, so he chose the flying tourbillon as the initial creative starting point and revolutionized the tradition of the watchmaking industry. Launch of the Astronomia watch with an unprecedented gravitational three-axis tourbillon.

The Jacob & Co. Astronomia has four “satellite” arms that make one revolution around the dial every 10 minutes.

The first of the four arms is connected to the three-axis tourbillon, which rotates in 60 seconds on the first axis, two and a half minutes on the second axis, and circles the dial in 10 minutes on the third axis.

The second “satellite” is actually a 288-faceted Jack & Bowie exclusive cut diamond that rotates on its axis in 30 seconds and circles the dial in 10 minutes. The diamonds are cut and shaped by hand, and each diamond has 288 individual facets. The exclusive cut diamonds used in the Astronomia series watch need to guarantee their roundness and weight with the “satellites” attached to the other three arms (time display, three-axis tourbillon, magnesium globe) Keep the weight consistent, if there is any discrepancy, it will be declared scrapped. This exclusive Jack & Bao cut diamond takes two weeks of dedicated effort to create one, absolutely meticulous work.

The third “satellite”, directly opposite the tourbillon, is the time display, which circles the dial every 10 minutes. This was another challenge for the designers, engineers and watchmakers at Jacob & Co. to make the time display sub-dial rotate around the watch and rotate at the same time. If the 12/6 o’clock position is not correct, the It will greatly increase the difficulty of reading time for people. In order to solve this problem, Jake & Bao designed a unique patented differential transmission system to ensure that when the time display disk rotates around the dial, its 12/6 o’clock position is always facing the watch holder.

The fourth “satellite” is a miniature magnesia spray-painted earth, which rotates in 30 seconds and takes 10 minutes to circle the dial.

The three-axis tourbillon rotates non-stop around the dial, so watchmakers need to keep the weight of each tourbillon accurate, otherwise it will affect several other arms of the Astronomia. Although the three-axis tourbillon of the Astronomia series is very complicated to manufacture, it is definitely a visual feast, and it is also one of the many reasons why the Jacob & Co. Jackpot watch is unique in the world of watches.

See-through, unique “transparent” case
The eye-catching rare metal and artificial sapphire crystal case shows everything incisively and vividly, and the crystal case of each replica watch Review is handcrafted. Usually flat man-made sapphire crystals are simple to process and can be manufactured in batches by machines that cannot handle the curved domed sapphire crystals of the Astronomia series. The sapphire crystal cases used by Jacob & Co. typically take several weeks to manufacture, using special equipment and tools to complete.

At the same time, the team of designers and engineers at Jacob & Co. Jake Bao felt that the traditional crown would not match the clean and clear lines of such a transparent case, and that the crown tucked into the movement would prevent the watch from connecting the four ” satellite” arm. Therefore, the crown for time adjustment and winding has been moved to the back of the case, and the watch has two semi-circular crowns that can be lifted, making the winding and time adjustment of the Astronomia Tourbillon watch clear and simple.

The unpretentious custom-made art watch
The basic Astronomia watch is equipped with a bottom dial made of aventurine stone, with four “satellites” rotating above it. Looking like a night sky full of stars, this texture is definitely the best complement to your “solar system on your wrist”. The customizability of the bottom dial has spawned many artistic styles and top luxury playful works for this series.

ASTRONOMIA ART TIGER
Celestial Series Tourbillon Art Watch – Tiger

In the 18K gold and sapphire crystal case of the Celestial Tourbillon, a 3D hand-embossed tiger in white gold comes to life. Hand engraving on 18K gold is a great challenge, but Jacob & Co.’s master carver is beyond imagination. A tiger pattern usually takes months to craft, and even the smallest mistakes can lead to failure. A master artist’s work requires constant concentration to complete.

ASTRONOMIA FLAWLESS DROGAN
Celestial Series Tourbillon Art Watch – Xianglong

The dragon engraved in 18K rose gold embodies the ultimate details, which requires three months of dedication and hard work by the engraver to present such an auspicious dragon in 18K gold, and then requires exquisite polishing and polishing. Painters complete all the details on the scales: the teeth, the tongue and, of course, the finishing touches.

ASTRONOMIA THREE MONKEYS
Celestial Series Tourbillon Art Watch – Three No Apes

The three apes are hand-carved in 18K rose gold, and they cover their eyes, ears and mouth with their hands, representing not seeing, not listening, and not speaking. Inspired by a common Japanese philosophy of life, it reminds people to stay away from right and wrong. Masters of art dedicated to haute complication watchmaking have reproduced these ape statues, handcrafted from 18K rose gold, each with a different look. Despite the intricate and time-consuming carving process, the final product is lifelike and highly symbolic. Lifelike and vivid.

ASTRONOMIA SIPDER
Celestial Series Tourbillon Art Watch – Spider

A great success for the realistic sculpture – the spider’s body rests on four satellites, which needs to be light enough not to interfere with the movement of the movement. The skeleton it carries is made of titanium alloy and platinum wire, while the spider itself is made of duck feathers. The realism presented by this surreal sculpture is enough to make your heart beat.

The ultimate luxury jewelry watch
Jacob & Co. Jack & Bao founder, Mr. Jacob Alebo, has an extraordinary understanding of luxury. In 2001, Jacob & Co. Jack Bao began to transform and create watches, but at the same time, he continued to be active in the field of high jewelry. Precious gems and ingenious inlay art make the brand outstanding in the customization service of gemstone watches, which is also the field that Jake & Bao is good at. All gemstones are carefully selected in terms of quality, volume, color, brightness, etc. Only those gemstones that meet the brand’s strict selection standards and quality control will be used for manual setting.

Jacob & Co. Jackpot Astronomia Tourbillon High Jewelry Watch

So we can see that the advanced watchmaking technology of the Astronomia celestial body series is naturally matched with the gorgeous and eye-catching high-end jewelry craftsmanship.

Jackpot cut diamonds are striking enough on their own. The raw material must be at least 2 carats, and the excess part of the rough stone is removed with a superb cutting process to form a perfectly symmetrical diamond with 288 facets. This is definitely an excellent demonstration of the rich experience and unparalleled professionalism of gem-working technicians.

The gem-set craftsmanship watch of Jacob & Co. Jake Bao celestial body series high jewelry watch shows Jake Bao’s extraordinary craftsmanship, many inspirations and design elements, showing the charming style in each gem, and the charming machine. The core collocation sets off the charm and complements each other.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Launches “Poker Chips”

Reimagine the G383 in the disco era.

I am happy to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, which is a collaborative version inspired by the El Primero G383 in the disco era, but with a lot of redesigned luminous-the dial is disco-style at night and during the day.

Brief background
Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because of its historical significance for its chronographs and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the watches produced by the brand are both attractive and affordable. So working with Zenith is a breeze for me-because it means I can create my fantasy El Primero.

One of my favorite Zenith vintage watches is the G383. This is a truly stylish watch, and its design is undoubtedly the style of the late 1960s and 1970s-the dial is on the top, a real disco.

But one-on-one retro remakes have never interested me (and I don’t like the small lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s product development director, and we spent a few months together to perfect the concept and create the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”.

At the same time, poker chips will be easier to obtain than our past version. It is as affordable as the usual price of Zenith watches-in fact, its cost is only 10% higher than the Chronomaster Revival A386 steel watch-but it will also be more widely available.

Unlike our Habring 2 and Kudoke SJX versions which are only available on SJX watches and sold out almost immediately, poker chips are the result of a collaboration between us and Zenith. It is still a limited edition, but it will also be available in Zenith boutiques, after our initial exclusive sales period-click here to express interest.

“Poker Chips”
Like our past version, poker chips are considered easily recognizable as replica Zenith, but it is very different from the other designs of the brand—a great idea is extracted from history and reimagined for today.

Therefore, the classic 38mm El Primero case from 1969 is retained, but it uses micro-blasted titanium for the first time (other models with the same case are made of steel).

Similarly, the dial design can be traced back to the earliest stages of El Primero. G383 was launched in 1969 with a crazy fan-shaped layout in black, white and gold, reminiscent of poker chips.

The unique style among the vintage El Primero models is also very rare-only about 200 units have been produced-the G383 is relatively unknown today, perhaps because the luxurious appearance is not suitable for everyone, especially its unusual lugs.

Reinterpretation
Modern Poker Chip transforms the aesthetics of the original work into something eye-catching with a modern style, but once you recognize the historical inspiration, the taste of the disco era becomes obvious.

The dial is dark gray, divided into matte black parts, with a Super-Luminova luminous pattern on the top, which reproduces the layout of the retro original-but with luminous.

Thanks to the generous Super-Luminova luminous on the dial, the “Poker Chips” pattern is obvious both day and night-although I do think it is more noticeable in the dark.

In order to play the best effect at night, this watch is also equipped with an extra strap soaked with Super-Luminova luminous material to make the whole strap glow. Credit for the luminous strap goes to Romain and his team.

Because the dial is too cool, the case is limited, while retaining the retro classic style. Like the Chronomaster Revival model and the vintage El Primero A386, this case has a 38mm compact design, but minimalism.

It is a micro-sandblasted titanium metal that gives the case a fine dark gray finish, and then the coating enhances its wear resistance and helps prevent fingerprints from showing.

Inside the case is the El Primero 400, which is basically the same movement as the G383 and all other El Primero models from 1969.

Zenith had already launched a new version of the El Primero movement when it started this project last year, so you can choose the movement. We decided to use the original El Primero for two reasons.

The fact is that as the latest version of the movement becomes more popular throughout the Zenith series, I expect the original El Primero will gradually become less common. The second is to reimagine the aesthetics of vintage watches but retain the mild irony of the same movement.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”
Ref. 97.G383.400.38.C880

Diameter: 38 mm
Material: Titanium, micro-sandblasting
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 meters

Movement: El Primero 400
Functions: hour, minute, second, date and chronograph
Frequency: 36,000 times per hour (5 Hz)
Chain: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Black fabric pin buckle with luminous fabric strap