Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

In 2020, Vacheron Constantin replica draws inspiration from fashionable people in the city, but uses the predictable “Traditionnelle” packaging. In recent years, the most popular Swiss-made tourbillon chronograph watch that collectors talk about is produced by TAG Heuer. In fact, the Heuer 02-T movement is a high-performance Swiss-made automatic chronograph tourbillon. This year, Vacheron Constantin launched the Tradionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph… They added zero to the above price.

Generally speaking, the price of a chronograph tourbillon movement has always been relatively high-end, but it is almost definitely an ultra-modern (rather than classic) watch. The late BNB concept movement manufacturer specializes in exotic chronograph tourbillons, which were later transferred to Hublot when buying talent during the last recession.

Having said that, it is not that you can’t find some interesting chronograph tourbillon watches on the market, they taste more retro. For me, some of the best examples are produced by A. Lange & Sohne in Germany (which owns the same parent company as Vacheron Constantin). The 2020 Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph combines a chronograph and a tourbillon complication for the first time. This is the first time I recall in the brand’s series of production Review luxury watches. It uses the existing sports architecture, but uses a new mechanism that looks like a real winner on the wrist.

The movement is an internally manufactured Vacheron Constantin 3200 movement-a mechanism certified by the Geneva Seal. The movement is manually wound, has a power reserve of 65 hours and runs at a relatively small frequency of 2.5 Hz. This slower operating frequency does have an advantage, that is, there is a very beautiful heartbeat animation in the rotating tourbillon frame. For collectors, the true value of such a watch is that they can combine the visual appeal of watching a finely processed large-diameter slow-speed tourbillon with the tactile experience of a winding mechanism (as shown by the power reserve indicator). As specified)) and cycle the chronograph operation through the single push button placed on the crown handle. Yes, in other words, this watch is an extremely elegant toy that can calm anxious eyes and irritated hands.

The chronograph measures a special 45 minutes, which I believe is good for football games. The system uses a column-wheel drive system, and in terms of the activation system, Vacheron Constantin has created an all-or-nothing activator in a single button to prevent accidental pressing or damage to the movement. The movement composed of 292 parts is completely hand-decorated (high cost). The tourbillon is also placed at the 12 o’clock position, which is not common for brands-at first glance, one might think that this is a tourbillon model by Carl F. Bucherer. Interesting tip: Vacheron Constantin discussed how the tourbillon frame in the 3200 movement is powered by the seconds hand. This is the opposite of the fourth wheel on the gear train, as part of the open window on the dial, it obviously allows a clearer view behind the tourbillon frame. fake Vacheron Constantin

As the tourbillon chronograph belongs to the Traditionnelle series, the dial adopts elegant brand-style toffee hands and matching pink gold hour markers. The case width is 42.5 mm, but the thickness is only 11.7 mm, so the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph should not be worn too much. However, the waterproof depth of the case is only 30 meters.

Back to the dial, I know it is classic, but why does the brand seem to need to print the tachymeter scale on two-thirds of the chronograph? No one has used these scales for so long, and no one has considered using a certain type of scale for a chronograph that may have more modern relevance, which seems a shame. Think about it, we value these watches because they will not harass our eyes with unnecessary decorations or false design elements. We have always been crazy about the markings on the chronograph dial, and no one actually needed to use these markings for 40 years. I will let Vacheron Constantin slip because “Traditionelle” is the name of the product, but moving forward, I hope to see designers pretending that people today might want to use these watches for certain purposes instead of supporting the tycoon on the wrist.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is undertaken by Vacheron Constantin’s large-scale complication department. However, because its appeal is so heartfelt, it is very easy to understand intellectually. Of course, it has a high entry cost, but it is a traditional Swiss tourbillon with the Geneva Seal. If you are not the elite few who can afford all the hand-touching, then the TAG Heuer solution may be a viable option for you. I look forward to putting this Vacheron Constantin on my wrist.

Aviation watch, you still have to look at Breitling

Everyone knows how popular sports watches are nowadays, and among sports swiss watches, watches related to “ocean” and “aviation” are even more popular. Today I want to talk to you about the watch industry. The aviation table of the “fighter”. Among all kinds of aviation watches, I personally prefer Breitling.

In Breitling’s more than one hundred years of watchmaking history, the exploration and implementation of aviation watches have always been carried out. Combining years of aviation watchmaking experience, it has given prominent characteristics to brand products.

“Aviation Computer” Breitling

If one word is used to describe Breitling’s profound history and outstanding achievements in the field of aviation watches, it is “aviation computer”.

The first aviation chronograph launched by Breitling

The love relationship between Breitling and aviation watches can be traced back to 1915. Gaston Breitling developed the first chronograph watch, providing the first aviation chronograph watch for the pioneers of flight, and also for Breitling’s in-depth research on flying watches. Foundation.

When the time came to 1932, Breitling ushered in the third generation of Willy Breitling, the head of Breitling. With his youthful vision and bold ideas, he foresaw the future of Breitling in the blue sky, so he opened up a new field for the brand, namely aviation. Timing field. He also led the founding of the “Huit Aviation Flight Department”, which designs sophisticated cockpit instrument panels for the fledgling aviation field. Breitling has since risen to fame and is favored by aviation professionals, especially senior officers of the Air Force.

Twenty years later, in 1953, Breitling launched a new type of flight instrument AVI 765 pilot watch, which was presented in a wearable form. “Pilot” watch, and affected the shape and performance of later pilot watches. In 2020, Breitling launched a 1953 replica of an AVI 765 watch, which fully reproduced antique watches. Compared with the prototype model, the replica watch has only two significant differences: one is the removal of the word “Geneve” on the dial, and the other is that the water resistance is increased to 30 meters, which has a high collection value.

And this year, Breitling used the “Co-Pilot” Ref. 765 AVI pilot watch and four legendary fighters (North American P-51 Mustang fighter, Water F4U Corsair carrier fighter, Curtis P-40 Warhawk fighter and De· Havilland Mosquito Bomber) for design inspiration, launched the new Super AVI series watch, which is also the first series of Breitling legendary aviation watches.

Charm from flying

Breitling CEO George Cohen said: “This series of watches embodies a nostalgia for the early aviation era, when pilots relied on watches as an onboard tool. But even if you are not a pilot or a fan of vintage airplanes, I can appreciate its extraordinary craftsmanship and sturdy design.” These remarks illustrate Breitling’s emphasis on the new Super AVI series, and also reflect the brand’s confidence in the quality of the series.

Retro aesthetics, unique design

The Super AVI series watches are based on the brand’s century-old aviation watchmaking experience and have designed many iconic features for the watch models.

The case size is 46 mm, continuing Breitling’s usual tough guy style. Corresponding to the “large diameter” are the “large hour markers” and the “large crown”. The dial and bezel are engraved with clear and easy-to-read capital Arabic numerals. The oversized crown is located at 3 o’clock. It can also be easily adjusted with thick aviator gloves.

The two-way rotating bezel is decorated with knurled pits, which can provide the wearer with the best grip.

The brand equips this series of watches with a calfskin strap. The stitched style is intended to pay tribute to the stitching on the leather flight suits of that era, with all the details.

The Super AVI series launched by Breitling this time contains five different styles with distinctive features. Next, we will introduce these watches one by one.

Aviator 8 Curtis Warhawk Fighter Watch

The Super AVI P-51 Mustang fighter watch pays tribute to the all-around fighter North American P-51 Mustang fighter in two different styles. One has a stainless steel case with a black dial, and the other has a 18K red gold case. Equipped with an anthracite dial to meet the different styles of players.

The Super AVI Tribute Water F4U Corsair Carrier Fighter Watch inspired by the paint of navy fighter jets uses a blue dial. The timer is the same color as the dial, echoing the ocean elements.

In 2019, to commemorate the partnership with the iconic P-40 Warhawk fighter manufacturer, Breitling launched three Aviator 8 Curtis Warhawk fighter watches, which aroused unanimous praise from players.

This year, the Curtis Warhawk fighter element is applied to the watch again. The Super AVI Curtis Warhawk fighter watch is equipped with a military green dial with a white timer and red decorations. The color contrast is sharp, showing the famous The art style of shark mouth is highly recognizable.

The bezel of the Super AVI Mosquito Bomber watch is more unique. It is made of polished and satin-finished black ceramic. The orange and red elements of the hands and the white sub-disc are not only reminiscent of the De Havilland Mosquito Bomber. Discs and marks.

Self-produced movement with outstanding performance

The new Super AVI series watches not only have excellent appearance, but also remarkable in terms of performance. Like the aviation watch launched by Breitling before, it also has a timing function. There are 30-minute counters, 12-hour counters and small seconds counters at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions of the dial, and the date display window is located at 6 o’clock, with complete functions.

In addition to the timing function, Breitling also added a GMT function for it. Pilots or other travelers can check the time in the second time zone through the 24-hour mark on the inner bezel and the red pointed Greenwich Mean Time hands.

Through the back of the watch, we can see the Breitling-made B04 movement carried by the watch. This movement is one of the few automatic mechanical chronograph movements that can perfectly provide convenient dual time zone display. It has an exclusive patented system that can be used to eliminate differential gear gaps, making time zone changes smoother and more convenient and will not cause any interference with minute, second time and chronograph. In addition, the B04 movement has been certified by the Swiss Observatory and can provide approximately 70 hours of power reserve and is water-resistant to 100 meters.

As fake Breitling Creative Director Sylvain Benilon said, “We cannot forget that Breitling created aviation tool watches such as the AVI 765 model. This tradition is so powerful that we must not only keep it intact, but also Re-write it in the 21st century.” From its first entry into the aviation field to becoming an undoubted “aviation computer”, Breitling has experienced a century of journey. The launch of the new Super AVI series of watches symbolizes Breitling’s exploration of aviation watches. To a new level, and its fate with aviation continues.