In the eyes of many people, Rolex is actually a bit stubborn, and many watches are sold for decades without much change, which has also attracted a lot of complaints from watch friends. And cheap Rolex seems to have heard everyone’s voice. The new watch released this year has some visible changes, especially the “left-handed” Sprite circle that everyone didn’t expect, which is really surprising. But in addition to this highly regarded “Sprite Circle” GMT, there is also a watch that has undergone very big changes and upgrades. This change can be said to be “unprecedented” for Rolex.
Among Rolex’s new watches this year, the new green and black “Sprite Circle” GMT and the new Airmaster are the two new watches that attract the most attention from players. In addition to these two sports models, there is also a heavyweight Rolex that has undergone a major facelift this year, which is Rolex’s new platinum weekday calendar DAY DATE. The new platinum DAY DATE uses a new dogtooth bezel, replacing the previous polished bezel.
Rolex platinum DAY DATE used dog tooth ring for the first time.
Rolex DAY DATE, since its birth in 1956, has launched a platinum case model. You know, from 1956 to 2021, in the past 65 years, the Rolex DAY DATE platinum case model has been using a polished bezel and has not changed.
As a result, the gold DAY DATE, rose gold DAY DATE, and platinum DAY DATE all use a dog-tooth bezel, but the platinum DAY DATE uses a polished bezel. As soon as you see the DAY DATE with the “polished bezel”, you can recognize it at a glance. This is the most expensive platinum case DD in the DAY DATE family.
But things changed this year (2022). Rolex replaced the platinum shell DAY DATE with a “dog tooth ring” and completely discontinued the “grinding ring” platinum DD. A break with a 65-year-old tradition. From then on, the Rolex DAY DATE family, regardless of gold, platinum, rose gold, or platinum, has no polished bezel, and the dog tooth ring “unifies the rivers and lakes” (except for the dog tooth, the bezel is diamond-encrusted).
Why does Rolex only use dog teeth ring for platinum DD to this day?
Because, Rolex couldn’t make platinum dog teeth ring before.
Platinum is the most valuable precious metal in watches. Compared with 18K gold such as gold, platinum, and rose gold, platinum has a high melting point and high hardness, making it difficult to recast and polish. Platinum is expensive and difficult to machine. This is why, among the famous watches, the platinum case is 30% or more higher than the public price of the 18K gold case for the same watch.
Rolex dog teeth ring, with a large number of facets and all polished, 18K gold is easy to make because it is relatively soft. In the past, platinum has not made dog tooth rings, and can only use a relatively simple polished bezel for more than 60 years. From the actual effect, the dog tooth ring has a large number of reflective surfaces, and the effect is definitely better than a simple polished bezel. It was reported before that Rolex finally broke through the manufacturing technology of platinum dog teeth, so this year, the dog teeth ring was completely changed on the platinum DAY DATE.
Rolex’s new platinum DD comes in two sizes, 40mm and 36mm.
40mm version, model number 228236.
36mm version, model number 128236.
The two models, 40mm and 36mm, are dog-tooth rings, head bracelets, and use the iconic “ice blue” dial of Rolex platinum watches. Whenever you see a Rolex with an “ice blue” dial, whether it is a DAY DATE or a Daytona, you can instantly recognize that this is a platinum Rolex. It should be noted here that in addition to the ice blue plate, Rolex’s platinum DAY DATE also has a white plate, a black plate, a silver plate, a green plate, and a gray plate, but only “ice blue” is the exclusive color of Rolex platinum watches.
Apart from the size difference, the biggest difference between the 40mm and 36mm models is the dial hour markers.
40 mm 228238: Use Rolex’s latest three-dimensional Roman numeral hour markers. The three-dimensional time scale has multiple facets, and the three-dimensional effect is very strong and very sharp. At present, this new time scale is only used on the 40mm DD.
36mm 128236: Use the regular Roman hour markers before Rolex. Although it is also a three-dimensional hour-marker, the hour-marker is only polished on the front. This kind of Roman numerals, the log-type DATEJUST is also used, and it is only used on the 36 mm size on the DAY DATE.
In terms of size selection, the size of the gold watch is smaller, and the sense of formal wear will be stronger, and 36mm is no problem. The 40mm DAY DATE is updated in terms of design language, and 40mm can be given priority. Here I want to say one more thing, platinum watches are very heavy, even heavier than 18K gold. I have worn a friend’s platinum Rolex, platinum head platinum chain, very heavy.
The new 40mm and 36mm platinum dog tooth DDs both use Rolex’s new generation of 32 series automatic movements (3255 movement). The 32 series movement uses the new Chronergy escapement, which improves the efficiency of the movement and enhances the power of the mainspring. While maintaining 70 hours of power, it has the standard of the Rolex Super Observatory, with an error of +2/-2 seconds per day. And continue to use the Rolex blue niobium hairspring to maintain outstanding anti-magnetic ability. At present, Rolex has popularized the new generation 32 series automatic movement across the board. It has been 7 years since its launch in 2015, and the performance of the movement has passed the test of time. The small crown in the middle of SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock on the dial is a sign of the use of the new 32 series movement.
Although the market of Rolex sports models is now higher, DAY DATE has always been the flagship style of Rolex. This time, the dog-tooth ring replaced the grinding ring, and some players also said that they still prefer the platinum DD of the previous grinding ring.